in the POD - mountains, redwoods, and coast...oh my!

Breakfast overlook

Trinity Lake, WhiskeyTown, CA

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We left Yosemite midday and drove out of the valley, up over the mountains of the Stanislaus National Forest, back into the central valley of CA and then up, up again into the Shasta National Forest and then down again .... to the spectacular Pacific coast. I swear we encountered at least 4 different weathers in the 2 days on the road. Green and moist with clouds suspended between the mountains, dry and rich in the central valley, majestic snow caps in the Shasta Range, and then clear  blue and windy on the coast.

touching the clouds

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We passed through so many picture perfect towns nestled into the mountains. The Shasta Mountains was the home of many of the gold rush communities and there is still evidence of this past there. Weaverville -  the oldest of the CA gold towns once was the home of over 2,000 Chinese miners. The town is on the National Register of Historic Places and now has a new performing arts center - which was showing "The Sound of Music"! Seeing that the area is known as the Trinity Alps it seemed quite appropriate. Alas .. we did not stay to see the show.

After all the mountain climbing, the green and the deep ravines we finally descended to the Pacific. Wide, glorious, and the ever crashing waves welcomed us there.

Pacific Coast

North of Eureka, CA

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our campground

Redwoods National Park

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We headed back into the forests to the Redwoods National Park - totally on my bucket list. Needless to say they were everything I had hoped them to be..... 

WOW.

This is truly old growth forest. Dark, wet, low growth of ferns and mosses of all kinds on the floor of the forest and then - BOOM - trees that reach up like huge fingers into the sky. I have never seen trees that tall and that big around. There was a tree section at Yosemite that was probably 12' across. They had dated the rings on the tree ..... one not too far from the center was "The Battle of Hastings, 1066"!  Most of the trees in the redwoods were much wider than that one! Kind of beyond comprehension.

Among these giants I felt even smaller than I feel most of the time - both in the moment physically and in the general cosmic view. SO much history, so much time - oh, the stories that they could tell.

looking up!

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Tim making his entrance between two redwoods

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Everything was so lush and dreamy - kind of unreal and magical. Tim said he felt like we were living in Avatar. It was of another time, another place.

I make my first fire in a forest 

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 mosses of all varieties on the floor of the forest

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It was incredibly beautiful, tranquil and quiet. We will leave this dreamscape and head back to the coast again and then work our way up to Oregon.

in the POD - Yosemite

Entering Yosemite Valley

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This will probably be the most difficult post to write. Not for lack of things to say but for loss of words. I am rendered speechless by the beauty, the vastness and the sheer scale of this natural wonder. We were so unprepared for the awe! My eyes are so full and I do believe my heart has swelled. 

Bridalveil Falls, Yosemite

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Yosemite must be seen from every angle -straight ahead, looking up, looking back over your shoulder and dizzily down - as each view provides a different perspective. Every step is truly "an adventure"!

Photos cannot do it justice because they seem to lose the depth and they cannot capture the immense scale of these granite monoliths that rise straight up from the valley floor. These cliffs dwarf the Giant Seqouias and Redwoods that grow in the valley and in the crocks and crevices of these stone giants.

Tim at the base of a Redwood along a bike trail

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We camped for 2 nights at Upper Pines along the wooden edge. A beautiful, quiet campground - the only one open this time of year. The weather was perfect - sunny mid 70's during the day and dropping to @ 28 by morning. The sun rises late in the valley and the morning chill is surely felt on morning bike rides! But once the sun enters the valley over half dome .... Glorious!

The park was busy althou for most of our bike and hiking trips we often were alone. I cannot imagine visiting in the summer....

A visitor foraging one morning behind the POD

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The National Park Service has done it quite well here. Everyone is helpful, friendly and they care! The visitor center is incredibly informative about the geology of the valley, its history and its stewards. The small museum has an incredible collection of Native American baskets made by the people that populated this valley. The Awanhee Hotel, built in 1927, is grand but sits beautifully in the landscape. It also houses a collection of baskets and weavings.

The Awanhee Hotel at Yosemite

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We only touched the surface of this park. We biked most of the north end, biked and hiked to Mirror Lake, Yosemite Falls, and the top of Vernal Falls - spectacular!

The view down was as impressive as the one up. 

Photographer on the edge

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Vernal Falls, Yosemite 

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The hike to Vernal Falls was a bit strenuous at this altitude but so worth it!  The spray  from the falls was refreshing and the views both up, down and all around were incredible! 

Squirrel enjoying the view at the top of Vernal Falls

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 I cannot stress enough that Yosemite needs to be seen! Abraham Lincoln did a very good thing by setting this land aside -  Take it in, breath as deep as you can and carry it forever. 

BACK in the POD - a quick 1,800 miles

"Sometimes you're the windshield. Sometimes you're the bug"

Dixie Chicks

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There were sure a lot of big bugs in Texas. The Lone Star state, where everything is oversize, took us close to 10 hours to get out of! Not that Texas doesn't have some cool and interesting things to discover ..... But we needed to keep moving in order to arrive in Yosemite by Thursday afternoon for our campground reservation. And even the Texas Prison Museum (intriguing ...no? Doesn't it make you just wonder...) could not sway us from our intended goal.

So - as I drove north - all I really saw/heard was a lot of bugs smashing into the windshield. However, I was also struck by the following signs, towns and points of interest.... in no special order:

The Cadillac Cowgirl Boutique 

The TXShooting Range - interesting because it was right alongside the highway.

Only to be outdone by Rifle Range Road. Imagine trying to get home at night!

A town named Jolly. 

Fried pies. I did almost forgo Yosemite to try those!!

The "It'll Do" Motel.

and

Prairie Dog Town. The image of prairie dogs running an old west town got me thru a few hours of driving. Think about it - the way they stand .... They are so ready for a gunfight!

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We made it to Albuquerque, NM by 2:30am and stopped to sleep for a few hours. So glad we did! Waking up surrounded by the red mountains and clear blue skies was so rewarding.

The mesas of New Mexico

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Traveling thru New Mexico and Arizona made us wane a bit nostalgic for Santa Fe and our 2 years in this area. We were reminded of its beauty and how much there was to see and explore here. 

From the perch of my seat the dried arroyos and the windswept mesas that passed were as surprising and beautiful as when I first drove through here 35 years ago. Tiny pueblo towns and the constant trails of trains in the distance (I counted 85 cars being pulled by 4 engines on one of them) highlights both the past and present cultures indicative of this area.

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Arizona - snow capped mountains and Flagstaff in the distance

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Both in the high desert and in the low altitude of the Mojave there is a an almost crystalline quality of the light and the showdows cast- clouds on the hills, rocks against rocks - crisp and defined. The muted colors of the low growing brush- desert sage and pinion soft against the dust colored dirt. In the distance layers upon layers of craggy peaks that rise angrily in direct contrast to the soft foreground.

We have currently added New Mexico and Arizona to the "places we need to wander for 2 months at some point next winter" list. 

Hey - gotta have a list!

The POD at rest

Flying J, Barstow, CA

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We spent another night on the road - this  time in Barstow, CA. Most large travel plazas offer free overnight parking. We have found the Flying J's to be both convenient and quiet! We even got to enjoy a great sunset view with our dinner!

 

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Early morning start for our drive thru the Tehachapi and up the Central Valley to Yosemite. 

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NOT in the POD - Izamal

the church of the Franciscan monastery

Izamal, Yucatan

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So.... I want to buy a house in Izamal and invite everyone I know to a party there. 

The invitation will say - "Come party with us! It's the big yellow house - can't miss it!"

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Izamal is one of the oldest colonial cities in the Yucatan and every building in town is painted egg yolk yellow. EVERY building. There was a big paint store there and we wondered what they actually sold....... 

But I must say - the city was strikingly beautiful and the single color palette made it very calming.

one of the many plazas

Izamal, Yucatan

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outside of the convent looking down into a central plaza

Izamal, Yucatan

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the atrium of the Franciscan monastery

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Izamal was absolutely pristine in appearance. The cobblestone streets were swept clean, the parks were neat and tidy, and even the horse drawn carriages were perfectly lined up in a row - with each horse sporting a festive bonnet! 

The city is best known for the huge Franciscan monastery and church that sit up high overlooking one of the central plazas. It is a huge structure. The atrium alone is second in size only to that of the Vatican. Unfortunately, the Spanish conquerors built the church and monastery on top of one the Mayan temples and acropolis that were the sacred heart of this Mayan city. They thought it would be so much easier to "go up" instead of having to move all those stones!!!

Oops - those wild and crazy Conquistadors.

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San Miquel Arcangel

one of the quaint hotels 

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Centro Cultural y Atresanal Izamal

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Up until the end of the Precolumbian era, Izamal was one of the most important sites for pilgrimages. The main temple was built to honor Kinich Ahau, the Sun God. 

Egg yolk yellow ...... it all makes sense!

Today, Kinich Kakmo, the remaining archeological ruins that sit in the middle of the city, are unrestored and still being studied.  This was a surprising climb - there were multiple levels and each one was kind of hidden from the one prior. So every time you thought you had got to the top ...... well there was more!

Donna and Brian just about to begin the climb at Kinich Kakmo

Stave 1

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Tim and Brian meet the next variation

Stave 2

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and then the great pyramid

Stave 3

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On the last climb my sister and I were definitely using both hands and feet to maneuver ourselves - especially on the way down. It definitely was not any steeper than the Great Pyramid at Uxmal... but the broken and loose stones made it quite precarious.

looking back at the city of Izamal from the top of the ruins

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My last bit of wonder / learning from Izamal was this plastic bag of water hanging from the rafters at the local restaurant there. Actually there were many of these bags hung from the rafters - approximately one every 6' or so. Of course, we asked the maitre d' the reason. He explained that it was a fly deterrent. Seems that flys will see a larger version of themselves .... extra big fly eyes - starring back at them and they will get scared and fly away. 

We did not see any flies during our lunch ......

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NOT in the POD - finding a rhythm

Tim and I 

Hacienda Xcanatun

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We have fallen into a comfortable rhythm. Our days start early with the myriad of bird calls mixed with the sounds of a city coming to life - of both voices and vehicles. Tim has gotten back into his daily morning swim - a practice that he has missed ever since we left Florida 5 years ago.
(Not sure how we are going to trailer a pool in our POD lifestyle....)

I usually begin each day with a little work time  -  answering emails and sometimes doing a lot more.....
I have actually gotten a lot done since being here. Full time internet access really helps in sending designs and pics off to India without worry.
Ultimately, it is not a bad setting to be working in!

At work 
Casa Donna and Brian
Merida, Yucatan

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We have had many excursions to the ruins, museums and other towns of interest usually including a long drive, a lunch out - with margaritas - and then home to a refreshing dip in the pool and some siesta time. We have followed these very busy days with a quiet day at home. For me - I usually spend that day working or posting to the blog. It has been a nice balance for me.

Thus far in the POD we have not yet established a daily rhythm to our lives. Mostly because we have been visiting friends and tuning ourselves to their patterns of time and life. Which, for now, has been fine.
But, I have been wondering how it will be for us in the POD - as a lifestyle - and how long will that take to establish our personal rhythms. Will it be more difficult in 19'? Easier... ?
We have so much to learn.

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Dinner the other evening was at Hacienda Xcanatun - another beautifully restored hacienda that has been made into a resort, restaurant, and spa. The grounds were glorious and the dinner was superb - local foods done with a bit of a twist. As the sun set the grounds slowly filled with small farolitos lighting the paths through the garden.
Magical.


Donna and Brian
Hacienda Xcanatun

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 After dinner we attended a concert - held in the small chapel on the grounds. Every hacienda had its own chapel - as well as hospital, jail, and store. All the important stuff I guess.  The International String Quartet of Yucatan played the Haydn string  quartet in D minor and Elgar's string quartet in E minor which was - seemingly - not for everyone - but I loved it, especially the melodious II and III.
I really enjoyed the selection of these two pieces as they balanced each other quite well. And the Elgar truly showcased the groups' virtuosity.
All in all it was a lovely setting in which to listen and drift......

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And so on we go.....

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NOT in the POD - Hennequin Hacienda

one of the many verandas at the hacienda

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Yesterday was spent in the countryside outside of Merida - sometimes getting lost on tiny potholed backroads and sometimes not. It was another beautiful day filled with great sights and lots of historical learnings - my favorite kind of day! 

We started early and headed to Souta de Peon - a working hennequin plantation built in the 1800’s. After the hennequin trade died out early in the 1900’s the hacienda and fields were abandoned and fell into disrepair. Bought in the mid 80’s this hacienda has now been restored to its original grandeur and the fields have been replanted and now create jobs and sisal for local use and sale.

the grounds around the hacienda

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Learning about the growing and processing of the white agave plant (hennequin) was fascinating!

Blue agave is used in making tequila, green agave is used for mescal and the white agave, know for its sturdy, fibrous spines is used to make sisal. 

Once established hennequin plants live for 25 years. They produce their own "pups" (babies) which pop up next to the larger plant and are cut from the mother plant and can easily be planted elsewhere. 

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hennequin fields

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hennequin processing - stage 1

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The spines of the hennequin plant are loaded on a conveyor belt up to the machine that crushes them. Only 20 spines from each plant can be cut in a single year. 

hennequin processing - stage 2

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Workers lay out the spines in a single layer to roll through the machinery.

The runoff of pulp and liquid from the crushing process is saved to feed cattle and to fertilize the fields.

Fibers emerge from the other side of the machinery

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The runoff of pulp and liquid from the crushing process is saved to feed cattle and to fertilize the fields. Each one of these tied bundles is approximately 8 spines…. there is a LOT of fiber in each spine!

The fibers are dried in the sun for around 3 hours.

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 hennequin fibers dried and pressed into bales

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Once dried the fibers are laid in huge bundles that are pressed together and tied in bales for shipment. During the heyday of the hennequin trade only the raw material - processed and dried - was shipped for final finishing and production elsewhere. The final finishing was done locally only for immediate use such as the ropes needed to tie the bales for shipment.

In  order to finish the dried raw material it first had to be "combed". 

Tim hard at work

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Tim nobly volunteered to try his hand at the combing process! Once combed the fibers could be twisted - by machine or by hand - to make rope of all sizes. It could also be woven into a rough burlap-like cloth for bags, coverings, etc. Luckily, Tim was not a Mayan forced into servitude at the hands of the Spaniards who originally ran this hacienda (there were approximately 1,000 "workers"!). For his efforts he was given the rope he ended up making!

Then it was time for a mule tour of the fields and a refreshing dip! This hacienda had 8 cenotes (underground lakes) on the grounds - one of which was open to the public. WOW! Down a series of steps - maybe 3 flights? - there was a cave complete with stalactites, open “skylights” to the world above, and pristine waters to swim in!

Donna and I in the cenote!

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And then, as if it could not get any better, ..... a bar! 

Cheers!

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Tim and I on top of the Great Pyramid, Uxmal

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