Tuesday, February 15, 2022

In the POD - All that coastline!


Pescadero, CA


Santa Barbara, CA


With over 1,200 miles of coastline California, Oregon, and Washington are the perfect follow up to the ochre, russet, and sage green vistas of the Southwest. I love the Southwest for its colors, the arid climate, the desert landscapes and the huge expanse of sky. 


But….. give me an ocean!

 It’s life force and energy, it’s tidal pools and churning coves, the rocks to climb and the miles upon miles of beaches that stretch out ahead comfort my soul. The shoreline has stories of the past, present and future. There is history in every step and yet so much more to discover. How can one not stare out into the vastness of the open ocean and not realize how big the universe is, how powerful nature is and just how tiny we are. 


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The west coast is home to friends and family and our travels along its shores included visits with all. We stopped first in Southern California to visit old friends and colleagues staying for a few days in Palm Springs and then Pasadena. Covid has curtailed travel for so many people and we are thrilled to be able to travel safely in our little POD bubble and catch up with dear friends! 


We headed north up the coast passing the oh so familiar wide and sandy beaches of the sun bleached south. Much has changed in SoCal since we lived here, but those beaches and sparkling ocean still sing the songs of dreams.  As one approaches Moro Bay the coastline slowly becomes rocky, there are more coves and small bays and the ocean gets wilder. 



Pismo Beach, CA

We spent a night at Pismo Beach State Park - which, unfortunately, was not on the beach but we did - at least - get to watch the sun set on the beach before heading back to the campground. Heading inland for a bit we traveled small roads through farmland and cattle

We stopped for a few days to visit friends in Pleasanton, CA. and we did a day trip to a section of the CA coast that neither Tim or I had ever been. Between San Francisco and Santa Cruz, just south of Half Moon Bay, Hwy 1 winds along the coast through glorious farmland offering a multitude of places to stop, picnic, climb the rocks and wander the beaches. I loved seeing the farmland, filled, at this time of year, with tiny yellow wildflowers, which ran all the way down to the edge of the sea. 

Tidal pools at Pescadero, CA

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Crop circles?
Seal Rock, OR

Came across this magical artwork one morning! There were no footprints…… just these perfectly drawn circles. You just never know what you will find along the beach - shells, heart shaped rocks, a bit of magic? 
With the incoming tide it will be washed away. 

None of the coastline in Oregon is privately owned. At some point in the 1930’s the coast itself was declared a “highway” - Oregon Coast Highway No. 9 - and the state became its steward. The state is a wonderful caretaker of this magical coastline.


Heceta Head Lighthouse, OR

We have continued to have terrific weather on the journey. Even as we passed into the wet forests of Northern California and the even wetter forests and coasts of Oregon and Washington the sun kept shining on us! Our mornings in Oregon began with the perfect picture postcard version of fog - just enough to make it interesting.


The marina at Newport Beach, OR

Under the bridge at Newport, OR

Stopping in Newport, OR to visit another old friend. The beaches in Newport are very SoCal like…. Wide and expansive. The tides were extremely low while we were there so we were able to explore the tidal pools under the bridge and there were three pods of sea lions frolicking in the bay! I had never seen sea lions being so playful….. they were acting like dolphins! 

Oregon Dunes at South Beach State Park


South Beach, Newport, OR

This area of the Oregon coast actually has a series of dunes! As we walked the beach a kite surfer skimmed across the horizon while dogs ran circles on the sand. We even saw a horse and it’s rider enjoying the gusty winds, brilliant sun and flat expanse. 

Boiler Bay, OR

Wow! This spot was wild, windy and oh, so wonderful! The sound of the surf mixed with the wind was almost deafening and there were holes in the volcanic rocks that stretched out into the bay that caught and spouted waves into the air. 


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Haystack Rock
Pacific City, CA


Traveling the coastal roads we looked for small breweries (with outdoor seating!) for our lunch stops. Newport Brewing in Newport, OR, Pelican Brewing in Pacific City, OR and North Jetty Brewing, Long Beach, WA. All had interesting beer to sample but Newport had the best fish (lingcod) tacos! And Pelican had the BEST view - sitting on the beach overlooking Haystack Rock!

Before we crossed over the Columbia River into Washington we stopped at the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park in Astoria, OR. The park rings the mouth of the Columbia River in both Oregon and Washington. The Chinook and Clatsop Indians have made this area their home for thousands of years. In 1805/06 Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery visited here at the end of their 4,000 mile trek across the Louisiana Territory. The expedition was the idea of President Thomas Jefferson who wanted the team to explore the Missouri River to its source, record the flora and fauna, and to learn the languages of, and befriend the Native Americans. The team accomplished all that and more.

I wonder what changed…….


In our past travels it has always been important for us to engage with people along the way; locals or fellow travelers. Just to strike up a conversation while visiting a park, a historic site or sitting at a bar. We have found it both enlightening and meaningful. On this trip we have tried our best to continue that but, between Covid and the state of our politics, it has become much more difficult and that has been so disappointing.

Pacific City, CA

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Saturday, February 5, 2022

In the POD - Pinnacles National Park

 

Exiting Bear Gulch Cave and climbing to the reservoir 

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Pinnacles is one of our smallest and one of newest national parks. Proclaimed a national monument in 1908 and a national park in 2013, this designated wilderness includes over 26,000 acres of rolling hills, spectacular rock spires, and boulder covered (talus) caves. Hiking Pinnacles is not for the faint of heart. Most of the trails are long and quite challenging and attract rock climbers and experienced thrill seekers. Because we do not happen to fall into either of those categories….. we only fully completed one of the shorter trails; a 2.5 mi loop trail with a 500’ elevation change along rock formations, through 2 talus caves climbing up to the 1800’ rim to a perfectly still reservoir. 

Truthfully, halfway through the first of the caves, as we were crawling on our hands and knees trying to hold on to our walking sticks and flashlights I began to think I had made a horrible mistake! But we persevered - did not admit fear/defeat to each other - and felt greatly rewarded by our efforts with the views and a great feeling of accomplishment at the end of the day.


Bear Gulch Reservoir 


View across the chaparral from near the top


There are two entrances to Pinnacles - one from the west out of the Salinas Valley and one from the east - and there is no road within the park connecting the two areas. However, you can hike between the two sections of the park if you are up to a strenuous 13 mi trek. We entered from the east traversing Rt 25 through a sweet valley between the Gibilan and Diablo Ranges that was dotted with cattle farms. We stayed within the park at its only campground, which was well laid out and offered electrical hook ups at each site. 
Once again, the night sky was fantastic! Stars touching the horizon all around us; brilliant, distinct, and telling their stories oh so loudly. It is a symphony I never tire of hearing. 

The largest pine cone I have ever seen!


On route… before the caves…

Pinnacles is known to be a critical habitat for the California Condor! As we were hiking we did see large birds flying high above us but I could not be sure they were condors. With a wing span of up to 9’ they are  North America’s largest land bird. I soooooo wanted to see one, and maybe I did and maybe I didn’t. 
The caves we visited are home to a maternal colony of Townsend’s big eared bats. They hibernate in the winter so - as we were crawling around in there, in the dark - we did not see any. Thank goodness as that just might have been the straw……


Looking up!



Wandering…