in the POD - changing directions

moss covered trees

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Our plan was to head south east out of Portland following Rt 22 thru the Willamette and the Deschutes National Forests (part of the Southern Cascade Range) and then down onto the high plains in the eastern part of the state.  Oregon had a mild winter this year so we figured there wouldn't be an issue with snow in the higher elevations. Then we would head south into Nevada, working our way to one of the east entrances into Death Valley National Park. Seemed like a good plan and would take us through areas where we had not yet been!

Heading into the Willamette Forest

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The Cascade Mountain Range extends from the Canadian border through Washington and Oregon and into Northern California. These majestic, snow capped mountains (topping out over 14,000') have a dramatically different climate and topography on their western side and on their eastern side. To the west are the dramatic coastlines, the major cities such as Seattle, Tacoma, Portland and Salem. It is the weather here that we will typically associate with the northwest - rain ...... and therefore the lush green surroundings. To the east is the dry high plains of wide open spaces! Farmland, cattle grazing and rolling hills. 

Deschutes National Forest

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As we began our ascent into the mountains we were surrounded by the typical lushness - myriad of green, running streams, and moss everywhere! The trees looked like they had just been laden with green snow! Otherworldly. We continued up. Eventually, posted signs warned "snow zone" and "chains required". Hummm.... we continued. The snow on the side of the road never got higher than 3' but as we hit 4000' and then 5000' there had obviously been snow recently and there was a good snow pack on the roadway.  Tim was driving and we decided to proceed - it seemed that other vehicles were coming down the mountain without chains. Driving was quite slow and arduous. But as we made it to the peak we breathed a sigh of relief and headed down. 

Deschutes National Forest

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We came upon Sisters, OR. - a really quaint, tourist town with great restaurants, shops, a summer time rodeo and a movie theatre in an old barn! Around 10 miles later we came upon Brothers, OR...... basically not so pretty a place with ......nothing. Just saying.

sunset in Riley, OR

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We ended our drive in Riley, OR. There was the post office and the Riley general store and campground. Out there in the middle of nothing. The wind whipped and the temps dropped. In the morning we woke to 3 degrees and frozen everything in the POD ! We decided to rethink our route. If we headed south into Nevada it would not warm up until close to Death Valley. If we backtracked a bit and headed south to California.... less issues. We chose the less issue.

just us

Riley, OR

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eastern Oregon was like a watercolor painting

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 a lake. who knew.

Lake Abert, OR

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We took Rt 395 south into California through beautiful high desert and skirting Lassen Volcanic National Park.  Ultimately, we ended up back on Rt 99 ( I hate to travel on the same roads...) but we did get to stop at a favorite California fruit stand for Cara Cara oranges before we settled for the night. 

All is good. 

in the POD - a seat at the window

a window with a view...

Portland. OR

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Thank you. I could sit in this window forever.

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I have been welcomed into this home, into your arms and given this seat 

to look out and to look in.

It is not surprising that I am here and that you welcome me so warmly. You serve me tea and your emotions - that's what we do. But, still, it feels like a gift right now. 

To be here.

With you.

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I understand the workings here; I was part of the beginning. We have always been connected to each other, sometimes off and sometimes on, but always connected. Our voices came of age together and we learned and failed together, picking up each other's pieces, being the rock to each other's sand.

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And, yet, you will always continue to amaze me. Your strength and honesty pours from your fingertips and from your eyes. By challenging yourself you have found the path to healing. Focused inward; powerful and strong. 

In both your written and spoken words I feel your strength and I feel your brittleness. 

All is right. You are right. It is yours to own.

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Long ago I found a suitcase from St. Louis sitting alone in our shared dorm room. 

It was when you walked into the room that we began.

Thank you for this continuing journey.

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in the POD - island to island to island

Along the rocky shoreline, Larrabee State Park, WA

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We headed north on Chuckanut Drive - 20 miles of a very narrow, twisting and turning scenic roadway that hugs the cliffs of Chuckanut Mt above Puget Sound. Built in 1909, the road overlooks both interior gorges and waterfalls as well as the dramatic views westward to the sound. It was a perfect serendipitous choice! At most every turn, beautiful Madrona trees were clinging to the rocky cliffs. Native to the Pacific Northwest, Madronas are broad leafed evergreens with a reddish bark - that often is peeling off of the trunk and they are stunning!!

Clayton Beach, Larrabee State Park, WA

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The weather was gray, a bit drizzly and rain threatened for the next few days. We encamped at Larrabee State Park (Washington State’s first state park!) located on Samish Bay. The campground itself was tucked in among pines, evergreens and firs - but a short, slippery hike took us out to the tidal pools and sandstone cliffs of Clayton Beach.

a walk in the woods

Larrabee State Park, WA

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For the 2 days we were there it did mostly rain - but the occasional break in the clouds afforded us some short hikes - and the rain allowed us time to curl up, read, relax, and enjoy the quiet nature that surrounded us. Just the two of us, in the POD, in the woods. 

Madrona tree, Larrabee State Park, WA

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On the third day we continued north to Bellingham, WA and spent the afternoon shopping and exploring the Fairhaven historic district. It was a clear, yet blustery, Saturday so the streets of this quaint port town were busy with shoppers and tourists - just like us! There was a small boardwalk at the port and an overnight ferry to Alaska - hummmmmm…… I’m storing that nugget in the back of my mind for further consideration! We wandered and filled our day popping in and out of bakeries, art galleries, a used book store and … yes….. a brewery! 

Stones Throw Brewery, Fairhaven, WA

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on the 20 car ferry to Lummi Island, WA

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We then headed to the Lummi Island ferry. Lummi is one of the most northern of all the San Juans and has a year round population of @ 1,000 people. My childhood friend, Mary-Ellen, and her husband, Peter, have lived here for over 20 years.  This quiet, rural island is approximately 9.5 square miles of small farms, artist studios, salmon fisheries, rocky shorelines and pristine views in every direction. Most days we could easily see the snow covered mountains of Canada.

along the shore of Lummi Island

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The four of us spent our first full day together curled up inside their house as a nor’easter of arctic wind whirled around us. It was perfect! A lazy Sunday with time to catch up - and eat….. 

The following day was crystal clear and we went for a “half round the island” walk. Along the shore line at sea level and then up along cliffs overlooking the water, past farmlands, sheep, llama, cattle, and so many eagles! The weather was colder than it had been anywhere so far on this trip but with the full sun on our faces it felt really good to be outside. 

sheep farm, Lummi Island, WA

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Mary-Ellen and I resting after our half island stroll

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We woke to another beautifully clear, (cold) sunny day and headed to Vancouver, BC! The Canadian border is only @ 20 miles from Lummi, so a day trip is quite easy. I had not been to Vancouver since 1984 when I was there for a month shooting a movie so I was excited to see how it had changed over the years. Our main stop was Granville Island, a small peninsula located across False Creek from downtown Vancouver. At the turn of the century this area was home to sawmills and industrial manufacturing plants but as industry moved out the empty buildings needed to find a new use. In 1979, the federal and provincial governments converted the first of many buildings. 

houseboats along False Creek

Vancouver, BC

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Today, this area is filled with farmer’s markets, artist studios, galleries, an art center, theatre, shops, restaurants and music venues. The market and a few restaurants were there when I first visited in 1984 - but boy has it grown, along with the entire  city!! And there were so many more tall buildings going up as we surveyed the shoreline.

The Liberty Distillery, Granville Island

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the growing skyline, Vancouver, BC

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Like Pike Place Market, the market was brimming with fish, meat, cheeses, fruits, veggies, and many take out food spots. We shopped for dinner - fresh cod, pate with pistachios and cranberries, haricots vert, new potatoes, mushrooms, raspberries, blueberries, and 5 beautiful french pastries. Lunch and a few shops and galleries rounded out our day and we headed back, quite sated, to the border crossing. 

Red Snapper fish tacos and a local IPA for lunch

The Sand Bar, Vancouver, BC

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We felt so pleased with ourselves - escaping to Canada for the day, shopping and exploring a bit - it had been a fun day. And then we met our border agent. 

“How long were you in Canada?”

“oh, about 5 hours”

“What was the purpose of your trip?”

“just visiting - shopping, lunch…”

“What did you buy?”

“food for dinner - fish, potatoes, fruit, veggies, dessert….”

The agent frowned and handed us a green slip. “Pull into the driveway to the left. Park. Take this paper and your passports into the building.”

We wondered if they were going to take away our dinner, we wondered if we were in trouble, we wondered what Canadian prisons were like. Mostly we waited at a very long counter for a very long time for someone to show up and acknowledge us. Mary-Ellen thought I should take out my camera and film the ordeal. I cautioned against that. Finally the “Agricultural” agent arrived and asked us what we had in the car. Nervously, we listed the items again. She asked for the car keys, told us to stay inside, and then left. Argh! As soon as she left we realized in our nervousness that we forgotten to tell her about the mushrooms and the pate …. OMG - WE HAD LIED TO THE AUTHORITIES! 

She came back much quicker than we expected and she produced the potatoes and the blueberries explaining that she would have to confiscate them. She told us that the potatoes were not labeled so it was unclear where they were grown and the blueberries were out of season therefore they were imported and could not cross the border. She handed us a pamphlet on foods allowed/not allowed so we could familiarize ourselves with the rules and sent us on our way. 

I read the pamphlet in the car. It did not, in any clear, definitive way, explain what foods would/would not be allowed. It basically said “possibly” and “depending” a lot. The haricots vert and mushrooms  were not labeled either but they were okay? The raspberries were not in season so why were they okay and the blueberries not? And, it seems, that if I had peeled the potatoes all would have been well!  At least we still had our dinner and dessert, we had a good story to tell AND we were not scolded for the pate faux pas.

Tim and I on the western side of Lummi Island

Orcas Island in the distance

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It turned cold again our last day on Lummi Island but Mary-Ellen and I took another long walk heading in the opposite direction than the last time. Down by the ferry dock, the small library and the historic schoolhouse and then up along the shore road. It started to snow. We were able to go almost 3 miles before the wind got to us. Peter came to our rescue and we were driven back to the house. We watched the snow fall through the large picture windows that adorn the north western side of their home and settled in for the evening. Our last dinner was “skiffy - scaiff” (what my mother called  “a little bit of everything thats left over”). 

Delicious!!

Peter and I trying to be serious for the camera.....

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All of our dinners were terrific and everyone shared in the cooking responsibilities taking turns each night. It was just so comfortable and easy to be there with friends, in our stocking feet, warming ourselves by the fire, laughing and sharing. Thats the best part of close friends; the ease of sharing, the honesty of sharing.

The sun is shining again and we are heading south to Portland, OR. Our route after that is penciled in……….

in the POD - a week of FOOD

Pike Place Market

Seattle, WA

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We headed north to Seattle for our POD service appointment. Because they would have the the vehicle for most of the day, they said they would give us a ride into downtown Seattle and then pick us up at our convenience - thank you Mercedes Benz! We headed to Pike Place Market with the intent to wander the area, shop and eat. Little did we know that this would set the tone for the entire week ahead……..

Pike Place Market

Seattle, WA

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Pike Place was just gearing up as we arrived just before 9 am. We watched fish mongers load ice and their varied catch into their stalls, flower vendors unloading and filling tin bouquet tubs with gorgeous arrangements, fruit sellers, bakers, artisans  - everyone greeting the overcast day and ready to start anew. Much larger, more rustic and more open than Faneuil Hall the market was a sensory overload. We wanted to buy everything - it all looked so tempting! We saw food items that intrigued us and we knew we needed to step back and assess. Breathing deeply, and after a full walk through both sides of the market, we decided to begin with hot ciders from an outdoor vendor and savory croissant from a small bakery. We found an enclosed place to sit, eat our delights and gaze out over Puget Sound. Shrouded in clouds that would lift over the course of the morning, the harbor was busy with traffic as we munched while deciding what we would bring to friends and feast on over the next few days!

Pike Place Market

Seattle, WA

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We decided we needed to buy cheese, bread, fruit, monkfish, smoked salmon and bratwurst as the core elements of what we would cook. We found recipes, we made lists and then we wandered more - through galleries and bookstores. At lunch time we decided to head to The Athenian, a restaurant that has been at Pike Place since 1909. 

Looking out over Puget Sound

Pike Place Market

Seattle, WA

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In a booth overlooking the sound we lingered over local brews and an amazing seafood stew. The sun, not normally seen in Seattle this time of year, suddenly popped through the clouds and bathed us in all its warmth. It was so pleasant I could have sat there for most of the day.  And yet, we finally roused ourselves from our hop filled stupor and began our shopping! We found the sweet paprika, fresh sauerkraut, tomatoes, garlic, veggies etc that we needed for all the recipes. We sampled cheeses, watched cheese curds being made and made our cheese selections. Decided which breads to buy and which berries looked the best. By mid afternoon we were taken back to the Mercedes service center and we were soon on our way! The POD was waiting and had been washed!!!! Life is good.

Skagit Bay from Dana's house

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LaConner, WA was our next stop. Our plan is to visit more friends and family on this north west swing. Tim’s cousin, Dana, lives on a most spectacular spot overlooking Skagit Bay. The sun rises on the left of the bay and sets on the right …… bringing back memories of Windmill Lane. Breathe deep. We cooked, we ate, we gabbed, we wandered and explored …. it was perfectly relaxing. Monkfish in tomato garlic sauce served with lemon garlic orzo. Bratwurst, new potatoes and veggies stewed with sauerkraut. Alaskan King Crab. Steamers. Shakshuka in green chili salsa. Once we got started we could not stop….

Eating steamers with Dana

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Alaskan King Crab!

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Dana and Tim

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Sunset on Skagit Bay from Dana's house

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After a few days there we headed to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island in Washington to visit Tim’s brother Russell and his wife Roberta. The San Juan Islands are an archipelago of islands that sit between the U.S. mainland  and Vancouver Island, Canada. All in all there are 172 named islands and reefs here but only a few are serviced by ferry. San Juan Island is the second largest of the islands and boasts a population of @ 7,500 year round residents. However,  the population jumps to @ 25,000 during the summer! (Shades of Cape Cod - in the early days). The 1 hour ferry ride was stunningly beautiful! The water was pristine as we cut between the myriad of outcrops and islands speckled with houses deep among the pines and firs. The  glacier cut channels run 350’ - 500’ deep in these waters! 

Roberta, Russell and Tim

Cattle Point, San Juan Island, WA

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Friday Harbor is the perfect little resort town - a picturesque harbor, walkable streets, galleries,   inns and restaurants. But it is the rest of the island that brings it home - at @ 17 miles long and 5 miles wide the topographic diversity is astounding. From rolling farmland to pebble beaches to old growth forest this island has just about everything. 

Friday Harbor, WA 

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Russell and Roberta treated us to a full scale round the island tour with stops at each historic and awe inspiring site. The grayness that hung in the sky did not deter us from venturing out each day in search of gastronomic pleasure! We sampled simple - yet terrific - pub grub, local craft brews and delicious wood stove pizza, amazing pop overs at Ernie’s Cafe at the small “international” airport, and a wonderfully special Valentine’s dinner at Vinny’s overlooking the harbor. Oh…. and one evening Russell prepared a most wonderful dinner of rack of lamb, potatoes Dianne, and steamed asparagus. As I said … we have not stopped eating!

Craft brews at San Juan Island Brewery

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did I tell you these popovers were amazing??!!!

Ernie's Cafe

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I thank our hosts and LOVED every second we were together to share in conversation, the views, the moments and the food! So special.

San Juan Island

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We left Friday Harbor late this morning and tonite we sit in a small state park along the coast just north of Anacortes, WA. It is really dark and I think it may rain tonite. But thats okay. (We have been amazingly lucky with our Pacific NW weather so far….) 

We are happy and we are (needless to say) quite full! 

Our bellies are full of food, our hearts are full of love, and our lives are fuller and richer because of family and friends along the way. Thank you.

Looking west from the south end of San Juan Island

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