Watching the horizon

 

Looking SW from La Conner, WA

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Before we left on this 4 month road trip Tim said that he wanted it to be about vistas …. the expanses that we don’t see on a regular basis because where we now live is surrounded by tall pines. Sitting here in La Conner, WA overlooking Skagit Bay is the epitome of vistas. 

The sun rises to my left and across the bay, in the far distance, I can see the Cascade Range blanketed in snow. To my right the sun is setting and thru the glare I can see the snow capped tops of the Olympic Mountains on the peninsula. Bald eagles soar above along with ravens, seagulls, and the passing Canada Geese. Great Blue Herons populate the tidal pools. 

The tides themselves are extremely dramatic, changing places every 10 hours or so - with a high tide of over 11’ and a low around 1’ exposing rivers of ocean buried deep in the mucky floor. Today I watched the entire process from the deck and I must say, even though I did not close any of my exercise rings, it was a day very well spent.

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Low tide in Skagit Bay

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and now the Pacific Ocean to our left

 

Nye Beach, Newport, CA

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My heart is so full! California, rich and diverse in landscapes, has been filled with new vistas, interesting stops and old friends. We have been through the dry deserts of the south, the farmlands of the Central Valley and the foothills of the Sierras to the east. After 2 months and 6,000 miles of travel across the U.S. we finally hit the Pacific Ocean!

We left Davis, CA in gray skies and light rain and drove NW through the Anderson Valley heading towards the coast at Albion; around 100 miles N of San Francisco. The Anderson Valley, rolling hills of grapevines, had more vineyards and tasting rooms than I ever saw in Napa! The area is know for their Pinot Noirs - however, I cannot imagine doing a “tasting tour” along this extremely circuitous rural route!! I sure hope there are buses provided.

The final 20 miles of the route was through the Navarro River Redwoods State Park. Deep into old growth forests we were transported to another realm - the cover so dense that we had no idea if it was raining any longer. But suddenly there were glimpses of blue through  the trees. Each curve in the road opened up a brief window…… it was the ocean. 

Being at the ocean’s edge again, hearing the thunder of the surf, watching the heavy, gray clouds drop rain, hail and then open slightly to reveal sunshine and a miraculous coastline is the life blood that runs thru my veins. For all my love of the desert…. I am drawn to, and fed by, the ocean. It is wild, expansive and, truthfully, a bit threatening. … I am in awe of its power. 

It felt like home.

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Pomo Bluffs, Fort Bragg, CA

Our campground on the Pomo Bluffs was incredible! The Harbor RV Park was, honestly, a bit scary looking from the road. But the location and VIEW from our camp spot made up for any shortcomings. The  campground had direct access to the 5 mile paved coastal trail that runs the length of the bluffs in Fort Bragg. 

The views were stunning. 

We got all this and - as an added bonus - got to share these days with good friends. A perfect combo - especially for Tim’s 75th birthday weekend! 

View from our camp spot! ❤️

For the three days we were there the weather was wild and wonderful. We had crazy winds, light rain, heavy rain, hail, and more rain. Seemingly working in our favor the rains let up whenever we had an outdoor activity planned. And on Tim’s birthday we even got a full rainbow!! 🌈 

Mother Nature was with us start to finish.

Coastal Trail - Pomo Bluffs

Fort Bragg is a fishing town. Located at the mouth of the Noyo River it was founded in the early 1850’s as a logging and lumber mill town. The California coast was rich in redwood, pine, fir and tanoak, which was harvested to support the growing mining towns throughout CA and also shipped around the world. Obviously, over-harvesting occurred which is why the town eventually turned to fishing…..

Luckily, the redwoods, because of many years of environmental regulations, stand tall again.

Coastal Trail - Pomo Bluffs

Coastal Trail - Pomo Bluffs

During one large break in the weather we headed to the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens. Over 47 acres with 4 miles of trails, this non-profit displays and conserves plants that are part of the Northern California coastal ecosystem. We wandered through native woodlands and forests, azalea, magnolia and rhododendron in bloom and worked our way to the bluff that overlooked the wild ocean below. 

And just as if we had planned it…. The rain began right on cue as we finished up our visit to the gardens.

Art in the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens

Rhodys in bloom!

A staircase to nowhere….

Heading to the bluff at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden

The wild surf!

Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens - magnolias and rhodys

Cliff House at the Mendocino Botanical Gardens

Sun and approaching sleet at the campground 

We feasted on local seafood, chowder and beer. The primo spot was Sea Pal! Located in the harbor under the Noyo Bridge the outdoor restaurant had a take out window and a wharf. There were a few picnic tables under a tent but the focal point was the large fire pit out on the wharf. We met a number of very interesting locals, at least 4 cool dogs and some fellow visitors - great conversations all around! Times like these reaffirm my faith in humanity.

On the wharf - Sea Pal Restaurant 

Under the bridge at the Noyo River, Fort Bragg

The next morning began again with rain and followed us up the coast. Just N of Rockport we headed inland and upward into the Smythe Redwoods State Reservation. We climbed to approximately 1,800’ encountering snow and lots of fog. Once again, the twists and turns were exciting but not as potentially dangerous as the hairpin turns on the coast!

Heading inland from the coast

Back along the coast

Speaking of which, as we drove the rest of coastal California and Oregon we witnessed the remnants of so many mud slides! At least 6 spots where road crews were still working - down to one lane of traffic - and dozens of spots where the work had been hastily completed and was marked with “rough road” and 

“sunken areas ahead”. The atmospheric rivers of rain that have clobbered the NW have surely taken their toll. It is the slow drip, drip of climate change. 

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Nye Beach, Newport, OR

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Our second day back on the road was filled with sunshine and a much quieter ocean. We stopped in Newport for the day/overnight with a dear friend of Tim’s. As we always do, all three of us headed first for a walk along Nye Beach, one of the widest and prettiest beaches I have ever seen. Dinner, conversation, and a perfect sunset rounded out the day!

Newport Bridge

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We are now headed to the Olympic Peninsula, specifically Olympic National Park. Looks like cold temps and rainy days lie ahead. Let’s see if Mother Nature is still with us.

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We are settled tonight in South Bend, WA overlooking the mudflats of Willapa Bay. No one else is here at the campground. 

A very happy birthday boy!

Wandering

Lake Merced, CA 

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We left Palm Springs, the desert and (most of) the freeways behind. There was a light rain as we snaked our way through the Morongo Valley to the eastern side of the San Bernardino Mountains and headed north into California’s Central Valley. As we crossed the Tehachape Mountains the rains abated and the landscape exploded in greens! Such a beautiful and welcoming sight.

Orange and lemon trees laden with fruit, nut trees in full blossom, busy farmlands and cattle ranches dotted the landscape for as far as you could see. We stopped in Edison, CA, just south of Bakersfield, at a favorite fruit stand to buy Cara Cara Oranges and Meyer Lemons…… California dreamin’!

I had plotted a “scenic” route north that would take us along the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas. At first we traveled on farm roads in between fruit groves; which meant drive for 3 miles, turn left, drive for 3 miles, turn right, repeat…….Luckily, by the time Tim mentioned that he thought we had probably seen enough orange trees we hit state road 49 and began our climb into the foothills.

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Many mountain lakes are still in dire need of water.

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We drove up, down and around hairpin turns discovering new vistas all around us. This area is filled with tiny enclaves that once were old mining towns - Coarsegold, Chinese Camp, Mariposa, Coulterville, Bootjack.  Some still had remnants of the old downtown structures and some had refurbished and repurposed them. All were beautiful. 

Mountain lakes and rivers rushing down the hillsides poked through to greet us at every turn. The roads were inviting, the sky was open and each town gave us fodder for conversation. And, yeah, we did find a brewery in Andreas. 

Somewhere in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas

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After two days of wandering the hills we arrived in Davis, CA to visit friends. Davis is home to the University of California-Davis.  It is a small city that truly feels like a town; quiet, walkable and surrounded by farms. The large student population makes the city vibrant and fosters many cultural attractions. 

Beautiful sidewalks in Davis, CA

We walked the neighborhood daily and spring was blooming all around us - daffodils, hyacinth, bottle brush and so much more. I swear every yard had at least one lemon or orange tree! Glorious!! 

The “Groto” 

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One day we walked to the downtown farmers market and bought local eggs, olives and cheese. 

Davis Farmer’s Market

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Barn Owl at UC Davis Raptor Center

One morning we had an amazing tour of the UC Davis Raptor Recovery Center. The tour was led by a terrific young person who volunteers there. The center, part of the veterinary school, takes in wounded or abandoned raptors in the hope of recovery and eventual release back into the wild. The center takes in approximately 100 birds a year! Unfortunately, some of the birds cannot be released because their injuries will not allow it (they would not survive). We met 2 Great Horned Owls, a couple of Barn Owls, a Red Tailed Hawk, a Golden Eagle, 3 Turkey Vultures, a Bald Eagle, and a few raptors that were totally new to me. 

Spectacular! 

The Barn Owl in the pic above is being glove trained. The trainer, who works with the owl daily, brought the bird outside and fed it with a large pair of tweezers and answered all our questions. You can see how one wing is limp and sits away from the body. This bird will never be released. 

Great Horned Owls at UC Davis Raptor Center

And, as an aside, my entire opinion of Turkey Vultures changed after this visit! They are very social creatures and have strong group dynamics. We learned sooooo much about all the raptors - our guide was a fountain of knowledge. Hats off to the staff and volunteers here. 

FYI, They take donations. 

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Ruhstaller Farm, Dixon, CA

On a perfectly perfect  California Saturday afternoon we drove 30 min to 

Ruhstaller Farm, a hop farm that…. You guessed it, has a brewery on site! 

It was incredible! 

The parking lot, basically spots among rows of nut trees, was packed. I wondered if there was some big event happening and would we be able to get in. We walked through the gates and were greeted by chickens, ducks, cats, dogs and all manner of humans - babies and up.  The barn was huge and open to the fields laying before it. Stacks of hay bales, leather sofas, old chairs, and farm equipment were all sit-ables. 

Children were cracking black walnuts to feed the chickens that were roaming everywhere and playing in a small water feature that ran through the middle of the yard. Everyone was relaxed and simply enjoying the amazing day and their surroundings. There must have been 300 or more people there. 

The beer was really good and It was really fun to enjoy the energy and vibe of the place. They have music on Fridays…. Sad to say that we will be moving on before that.

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Friends enjoying the brews and the sun

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 Outside, inside - a place to settle.

So many kids having so much fun!

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Tim and the visiting chicken

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Sun slowly setting at the farm

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We have a few more days here in Davis with our friends and then we’ll head NW to the coast around Mendocino and Fort Bragg. I’m looking forward to wandering along the beach and, hopefully, some big wave sounds! 

From desert to desert

Anzo Borrego State Park

Looking back toward the campground as we hike upward!

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We left Organ Pipe National Monument on a cloudy morning with rain threatening and headed north on state route 85 passing through the towns of Why (why?) and Ajo, which was once known for its copper mines. We eventually hit I-8 and headed west. On the southern corner where Arizona meets California sits the Imperial Sand Dunes, the largest mass of sand dunes in CA. These windblown sands stretch for over 40 miles in a band averaging 5 miles wide and up to 300’ high. The area is a spot favored by off highway vehicle enthusiasts but there are also areas that cater more to wilderness and solitude seekers. The highway bisects the southern end of the dunes and they are quite spectacular to drive through. 

We made our way into El Centro for the evening - located at the southern most part of California’s Imperial Valley and approximately 10 miles from the Mexican city of Mexicali. El Centro is the largest U.S. city to lie totally below sea level at -42 feet. Close to rail lines, highways, and the border, El Centro has relied mostly on the agricultural industry- we drove through lots of farmland seeing cauliflower, onions, and carrots! Once again, it was a perfect spot to grab some groceries, do a load of laundry, and find a brewery. Humble Farmer Brewing Co. stepped right up and filled the bill perfectly. In fact, their most popular beer is the 80 Acre Carrot Ale - brewed with local carrots. It was interesting to sample - the nose was a bit sweet with hints of cinnamon but the flavor was a proper heady ale. Homemade chips were the accompaniment and the local at the bar kept us entertained. 

Humble Farmer Brewing Co.

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The following morning we drove north and then west on state route 78 into the Colorado Desert, the largest subdivision of the Sonoran Desert occupying 7 million acres. The Colorado Desert is known for its low elevations and extreme heat (similar to that of Death Valley). The area is vast, arid and flat.  

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We were staying in Palm Canyon at Anza-Borrego Desert State Park for 3 days. Located at sea level the park covers close to 600,000 acres and is the largest state park in CA. This desert park sits in a bowl surrounded by sculpted mountains - the Vallecito Mountains to the south and the Santa Rosa Mountains to the north. Only 2-3 inches of yearly rain falls in this valley because much of the precipitation is blocked by the mountains. There are more than 100 miles of hiking trails and 500 miles of dirt roads that spider web out into the far reaches of the desert.

Making pizza in the desert

Hiking in the desert

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We had a quiet stay; enough connectivity to watch the Super Bowl, mild temps encouraged a few good hikes, and some star gazing late in the evening. Could not ask for more…… 

On our way out…..

a 4,300’ view down into the valley at Font’s Point

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I was sad to leave the desert landscapes that had become so familiar to me over the past 4 weeks. But it was time to move on. We exited the park heading northwest on State route 79  and climbed high over the park topping out somewhere around 4,500’. Much of the route follows the Pacific Crest Trail and is within the Cleveland National Forest. The desert gave way to Pinyon Pines, rolling hills, small farms and cattle ranches. It was quite idyllic and helped ease my desert separation anxiety. That lasted until we hit the reality of southern CA…….. 

THE FREEWAY! 

We thought we had chosen a complete route without freeways but, alas, the 215 was suddenly in the mix. Ugh, I hate freeways - and the ever growing snake of cement mini malls that are forever being constructed along side them. It’s like you’re not allowed to take a breath. 

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Lake Perris Recreational Area

San Gorgonio Mountain (maybe?) to the NE

Lake Perris Recreational Area

Mount San Antonio (maybe?) to the NW

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We spent the night at Lake Perris Recreational Area, approximately 70 miles SE of Los Angeles. Luckily, the park was totally hidden from the highways and growing footprint of greater Los Angeles. Once again, it seemed as if we were alone, surrounded only by mountains. However, after nightfall we noticed the “glow” emanating from the other side of the mountains. The city was all around us - waiting.

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We drove (all freeway) into Pasadena, CA and will spend 4 days here visiting friends.  Then we’ll detour back south for 2 days to see friends in Palm Springs before heading north. It is always delightful to catch up with friends and even, when years have passed, we seem to, quite comfortably, step back into those old shoes and carry on the conversations as if they never ended. 

Such is friendship.

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I did get my quiet, desert fix. We visited the Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens and spent the majority of our time there in the Desert Garden! Of course we also visited the Japanese, Palm, and Chinese Gardens as well as the Conservatory. The 130 acres of this magnificent institution, located in the heart of Pasadena, is a treasure. Not only are the gardens spectacular, the Library is one of the world’s great independent research libraries, and the Museums collection of European and American Art is outstanding. 

I had not been back to the Huntington in over 35 years.

Tuscon and the Sonoran Desert

 

Saguaro National Park

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We spent 9 days at Picacho Peak State Park, located approximately 25 miles west of Tuscon. The campground sits at the base of Picacho Peak which rises a stately 1,500’. The camp has just shy of 100 campsites - but because it is on a gentle slope it never feels like you are too close to other campers. The view down into the valley, the sight and sounds of trains in the distance, and the clear night sky (away from the lights of the city proper) make it an ideal spot. The campground has many hiking trails - some very challenging and others more scenic in nature. We tend to choose the scenic routes. 

Since arriving in Arizona our weather has been glorious! Daytime temps in the low 70’s with nighttime dips into the high 40’s. Perfect.

Having an extended amount of time in one place has allowed us to fall into a rhythm - a day of outdoor or museum activities followed by a day of relaxing campside! No stress….. isn’t that what retirement is supposed to be? 

A perfect sunset 

Picacho Peak State Park

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Tuscon Botanical Gardens is located within the city of Tuscon and is truly an urban oasis. The 5.5 acres of gardens are quite lush and dotted with both dedicated and rotating art exhibits. There is also a tropical pavilion that, at this time of year, features hundreds of newly emerged butterflies. 

Sculpture at Tuscon Botanical Garden

A mature saguaro 

Wandering in the garden

It was a perfect spot to spend a quiet morning, wandering through dedicated gardens featuring native plants and the many specialty gardens which offered hidden alcoves where one could sit and ponder.

Happy butterflies and moths!

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When heading into Tuscon (or any larger town we are visiting) we try to combine that daily activity with fulfilling other normal life needs such as getting laundry done, doing groceries and, of course, searching out new breweries! Luck has it -  we always find a good brewery. 

Firehouse Brewing, Tuscon, AZ

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Climbing the Catalina Highway 

Looking down

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It’s peak, covered in snow this time of year, Mount Lemmon, at 9,159’, is the highest point in the Santa Catalina Mountains. These mountains are part of the Coronado National Forest and are the southern most tip of the Rocky Mountain Range. The Catalina Highway , which begins on the northern outskirts of Tuscon, and climbs 6,000’ to Summerhaven, a ski resort near the top of Mount Lemmon, is one of the most scenic highways in the Southwest! The 27 miles of twists and turns begins with the low Sonoran topography of desert and climbs to the cool mountain forests of an Alpine zone. At every curve it seemed that we saw some new environment; at first saguaros and prickly pear filled the landscape, then stark rock formations and hoodoos, followed by towering pine and aspen, and then SNOW! All in 27 miles! Crazy.

The following day Summerhaven got an additional 5” of snow.

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A change in the weather - 20 degree drop!

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About a week in we had a sudden change in weather. I’m sure it was part of the system that was attacking the west coast with torrential rains and snow at the higher altitudes. The winds shifted and dark clouds began to encircle the mountain peaks to the north of us. The light quality changed - bringing objects closest to us in bright contrast to their background. And then the rain came - straight down and with the sun still shining overhead. For the next 2 days the daytime temperatures were in the low 50’s.

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Saguaro National Park is on the outskirts of Tuscon. Divided into two separate districts, the park ranges in elevation from 2,180’ in the lower lying Tuscon Mountain District to over 8,600’ in the Rincon Mountain District. We visited Saguaro West in the Tuscon Mountain District on a perfect 72 degree day with just enough windswept cloud cover to keep us comfortable

It is impossible to photograph the majesty of this expanse!

Saguaro National Park

Loop road through the park

Saguaro are the largest cacti in the U.S. They grow very slowly at first…. maybe an inch a year during their first 8 years! It often takes up to 70 years for them to sprout branches (arms) and will reach full height between 40’-50’ when they are around 150 years old!! The Sonoran Desert creates a perfect habitat for saguaros - and the park is so densely filled that it is truly a forest of saguaros. It was stunning… arid, majestic, and, again, otherworldly. 

In the park there are many trails to explore for all abilities and one dirt loop road. 

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Crested Saguaro 

Arizon-Sonora Desert Museum

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Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is a 21 acre botanical garden and zoo with over 2 miles of walking paths. Stunning gardens that showcase the ecosystem of the Sonoran Desert! A must see if you are ever in this region. 

Just can’t get enough of sooooo many beautiful cactus!! And their flowers!

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Leaving Tuscon we headed southwest on state route 15 thru the Tohono O’Odham Indian Reservation (People of the Desert). The Santa Rosa Valley, stretched out and quite barren, is sprinkled with very small communities (consisting of maybe a dozen homes or less…). Some of these communities have been abandoned and only the decaying houses are left.

Small roadside shrines (capillitas) seemed to line our route through the reservation. I must have counted at least 40 of them before I stopped counting. Some were quite elaborate and looked like mini cathedrals and others were quite simple. I did not want to stop and take pictures because I felt it would be intrusive. Also scattered along this road were small community graveyards - white wooden crosses festooned with plastic flowers and wreaths. I read that many of these graveyards, like the community they were part of, are abandoned. However, each year on the days of Dia De Los Muertos, family members still return to clean and decorate the graves.

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Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is located in southern Arizona and shares a border with the Mexican state of Sonora. Although common in Mexico, the park is the only place in the U.S where organ pipe cactus grow wild. 28 different cactus species live here in what are, for most of the year, extreme weather conditions. During the spring and summer temps can easily exceed 110 degrees with the ground temp often hitting 175! Currently it is quite windy with daytime temps around 58 degrees and nighttime lows around 38. 

We will stay here for 4 days and then head into SoCal. 

Organ Pipe Cactus 

Of note: Since being in the SW I have seen lots of new birds! Cactus Wren, Greater Roadrunner, Canyon Towhee, White-crowned Sparrow, Horned Lark, Anna’s Hummingbird and a Gila Woodpecker!

Also saw a gray fox!

I have not seen a rattlesnake - of which there are warning signs everywhere!