The last few days have been like that - perfect in every way. Our first morning in this NW corner of Alabama arrived with the sun shining and balmy temps perfect for exploring the area around the city of Florence along the Tennessee River. Our second day here began with rain but ended in a picture perfect sunset.
Bookends.
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Our first stop was Tom’s Wall. The largest un-mortared stone wall in the U.S. and the largest memorial to a Native American woman, this wall was built, over a period of 30 years, by the great, great grandson of Te-lay-nay, a member of the Yuchi tribe.
The Yuchi tribe lived along the banks of the Tennessee River, which they called the Singing River. Between 1830 and 1860 over 60,000 people from the 5 tribes that lived in the southeastern part of the country were forced to “relocate” to the Oklahoma territory. This 800 plus mile walking journey is known as The Trail of Tears. Te-lay-nay, a young girl at the time, was one of those people. When she finally arrived in Oklahoma she said that the streams and rivers did not sing to her and she longed for her home and her own “singing” river. It took her five years and many obstacles but she made it back.
In the 1980’s Tom Hendrix, her great, great grandson, whom had heard all the family stories met with members of the Yuchi Tribe to have her journals translated. It was then he knew how to honor her.
The wall stretches out, circuitously, for a mile. The height varies anywhere from 3’ to 5’ high with multiple widths along its path. There are stone benches set in small curves and there are many personal offerings left by visitors along the way. Each stone that he laid represents one step of his great, great grandmother’s journey. The changes to the shape, height, and width represent the various obstacles that she encountered along her route. In the process he "wore out three trucks, 22 wheelbarrows, 3,800 pairs of gloves, three dogs and one old man.”
Our visit was inspiring, humbling and emotional.
"All things shall pass. Only the stones will remain."
Yuchi Tribe elder
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Our next stop was the Rosenbaum House. Built in 1940 this is the only Frank Lloyd Wright house in Alabama and (I believe) the only Wright house that commissioned Wright to add an addition to it 8 years later (adding 4 kids will do that!). Needless to say, it was spectacular!
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Mary Wallace Kirk
We saw a sign advertising a quilt show at the Kennedy-Douglas Center for the Arts and decided to make a stop there. Located in downtown Florence right next to a small park the center was housed in two adjoining buildings that were once stately homes. There were two exhibits going on - The Piecemkers Quilt Guild Exhibit and an exhibit, This House Was Full of People, by a local artist, Mary Wallace Kirk (1889-1978). Kirk’s etchings and engravings were detailed renderings of her rural surroundings. Although devoid of people each one of these small etchings were so full of life! I wish I could render the world like that……
Next on our itinerary was to visit the home and factory of Alabama Chanin. I have been obsessed with this designer, Natalie Chanin, since at least 2010 when I saw a collection of hers at Barney’s NY. All the construction, printing/painting as well as the finely detailed handwork is done entirely by local artisans. She has evolved; sells her clothing only online now and runs a makers workshop, and has continued to keep it all local.
As we toured the factory and store we “ran into” Natalie - (I was kind of gob-smacked) and we just chatted away about kids and downsizing and what is really important in life. Yeah growing older really centers us all.
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So you can’t be in the south - or traveling with us - without searching out the best local barbecue. Bunyan’s Bar-B-Q hit all the marks. Pretty much just a take out place, I had read that the line at lunch time was always out the door and into the parking lot. We arrived around 3 to order and pick up dinner and there was a constant 4-5 people waiting at all times. The pulled pork was perfect - smoked dry and so full of flavor. Our new discovery was hot slaw! Hot as in spicy. Crazy that we have never come across this before! Based on what I have read so far it originated in this area of the south probably starting in Tennessee. Chopped cabbage, carrots, and peppers with a strong vinegar based dressing of mayo (?) and hot sauce. So so good!!
Singin’ River Brewing Co. is the ONLY craft brewery in this entire area. Brew master, Zach, a chemical engineer by degree, was a terrific afternoon companion at the bar as well as a really great brewmaster. Tim and I each had a flight of 4 beers and there was not a one among them that we did not enjoy immensely! Both Zach and the woman who poured our beers, a Seattle transplant, were so friendly. It was such a pleasure to spend the end of the day with them.
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Our final stop was Muscle Shouls Sound Studio. So much of the music that was recorded in this tiny cement block studio is the background music of our lives. The studio was founded by a local group of session musicians called The Swampers. Their distinctive sound can be heard on recordings by Aretha Franklin, Etta James, The Rolling Stones and so many more.
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We tried to visit Green Ivy, the birthplace and home of Helen Keller, but it was closed for renovations. Maybe next time….
Thank you Alabama.
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