Nye Beach, Newport, CA
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My heart is so full! California, rich and diverse in landscapes, has been filled with new vistas, interesting stops and old friends. We have been through the dry deserts of the south, the farmlands of the Central Valley and the foothills of the Sierras to the east. After 2 months and 6,000 miles of travel across the U.S. we finally hit the Pacific Ocean!
We left Davis, CA in gray skies and light rain and drove NW through the Anderson Valley heading towards the coast at Albion; around 100 miles N of San Francisco. The Anderson Valley, rolling hills of grapevines, had more vineyards and tasting rooms than I ever saw in Napa! The area is know for their Pinot Noirs - however, I cannot imagine doing a “tasting tour” along this extremely circuitous rural route!! I sure hope there are buses provided.
The final 20 miles of the route was through the Navarro River Redwoods State Park. Deep into old growth forests we were transported to another realm - the cover so dense that we had no idea if it was raining any longer. But suddenly there were glimpses of blue through the trees. Each curve in the road opened up a brief window…… it was the ocean.
Being at the ocean’s edge again, hearing the thunder of the surf, watching the heavy, gray clouds drop rain, hail and then open slightly to reveal sunshine and a miraculous coastline is the life blood that runs thru my veins. For all my love of the desert…. I am drawn to, and fed by, the ocean. It is wild, expansive and, truthfully, a bit threatening. … I am in awe of its power.
It felt like home.
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Pomo Bluffs, Fort Bragg, CA
Our campground on the Pomo Bluffs was incredible! The Harbor RV Park was, honestly, a bit scary looking from the road. But the location and VIEW from our camp spot made up for any shortcomings. The campground had direct access to the 5 mile paved coastal trail that runs the length of the bluffs in Fort Bragg.
The views were stunning.
We got all this and - as an added bonus - got to share these days with good friends. A perfect combo - especially for Tim’s 75th birthday weekend!
View from our camp spot! ❤️
For the three days we were there the weather was wild and wonderful. We had crazy winds, light rain, heavy rain, hail, and more rain. Seemingly working in our favor the rains let up whenever we had an outdoor activity planned. And on Tim’s birthday we even got a full rainbow!! 🌈
Mother Nature was with us start to finish.
Coastal Trail - Pomo Bluffs
Fort Bragg is a fishing town. Located at the mouth of the Noyo River it was founded in the early 1850’s as a logging and lumber mill town. The California coast was rich in redwood, pine, fir and tanoak, which was harvested to support the growing mining towns throughout CA and also shipped around the world. Obviously, over-harvesting occurred which is why the town eventually turned to fishing…..
Luckily, the redwoods, because of many years of environmental regulations, stand tall again.
Coastal Trail - Pomo Bluffs
Coastal Trail - Pomo Bluffs
During one large break in the weather we headed to the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens. Over 47 acres with 4 miles of trails, this non-profit displays and conserves plants that are part of the Northern California coastal ecosystem. We wandered through native woodlands and forests, azalea, magnolia and rhododendron in bloom and worked our way to the bluff that overlooked the wild ocean below.
And just as if we had planned it…. The rain began right on cue as we finished up our visit to the gardens.
Art in the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens
Rhodys in bloom!
A staircase to nowhere….
Heading to the bluff at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden
The wild surf!
Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens - magnolias and rhodys
Cliff House at the Mendocino Botanical Gardens
Sun and approaching sleet at the campground
We feasted on local seafood, chowder and beer. The primo spot was Sea Pal! Located in the harbor under the Noyo Bridge the outdoor restaurant had a take out window and a wharf. There were a few picnic tables under a tent but the focal point was the large fire pit out on the wharf. We met a number of very interesting locals, at least 4 cool dogs and some fellow visitors - great conversations all around! Times like these reaffirm my faith in humanity.
On the wharf - Sea Pal Restaurant
Under the bridge at the Noyo River, Fort Bragg
The next morning began again with rain and followed us up the coast. Just N of Rockport we headed inland and upward into the Smythe Redwoods State Reservation. We climbed to approximately 1,800’ encountering snow and lots of fog. Once again, the twists and turns were exciting but not as potentially dangerous as the hairpin turns on the coast!
Heading inland from the coast
Back along the coast
Speaking of which, as we drove the rest of coastal California and Oregon we witnessed the remnants of so many mud slides! At least 6 spots where road crews were still working - down to one lane of traffic - and dozens of spots where the work had been hastily completed and was marked with “rough road” and
“sunken areas ahead”. The atmospheric rivers of rain that have clobbered the NW have surely taken their toll. It is the slow drip, drip of climate change.
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Nye Beach, Newport, OR
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Our second day back on the road was filled with sunshine and a much quieter ocean. We stopped in Newport for the day/overnight with a dear friend of Tim’s. As we always do, all three of us headed first for a walk along Nye Beach, one of the widest and prettiest beaches I have ever seen. Dinner, conversation, and a perfect sunset rounded out the day!
Newport Bridge
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We are now headed to the Olympic Peninsula, specifically Olympic National Park. Looks like cold temps and rainy days lie ahead. Let’s see if Mother Nature is still with us.
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We are settled tonight in South Bend, WA overlooking the mudflats of Willapa Bay. No one else is here at the campground.
A very happy birthday boy!
