NOT in the POD - Izamal

the church of the Franciscan monastery

Izamal, Yucatan

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So.... I want to buy a house in Izamal and invite everyone I know to a party there. 

The invitation will say - "Come party with us! It's the big yellow house - can't miss it!"

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Izamal is one of the oldest colonial cities in the Yucatan and every building in town is painted egg yolk yellow. EVERY building. There was a big paint store there and we wondered what they actually sold....... 

But I must say - the city was strikingly beautiful and the single color palette made it very calming.

one of the many plazas

Izamal, Yucatan

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outside of the convent looking down into a central plaza

Izamal, Yucatan

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the atrium of the Franciscan monastery

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Izamal was absolutely pristine in appearance. The cobblestone streets were swept clean, the parks were neat and tidy, and even the horse drawn carriages were perfectly lined up in a row - with each horse sporting a festive bonnet! 

The city is best known for the huge Franciscan monastery and church that sit up high overlooking one of the central plazas. It is a huge structure. The atrium alone is second in size only to that of the Vatican. Unfortunately, the Spanish conquerors built the church and monastery on top of one the Mayan temples and acropolis that were the sacred heart of this Mayan city. They thought it would be so much easier to "go up" instead of having to move all those stones!!!

Oops - those wild and crazy Conquistadors.

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San Miquel Arcangel

one of the quaint hotels 

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Centro Cultural y Atresanal Izamal

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Up until the end of the Precolumbian era, Izamal was one of the most important sites for pilgrimages. The main temple was built to honor Kinich Ahau, the Sun God. 

Egg yolk yellow ...... it all makes sense!

Today, Kinich Kakmo, the remaining archeological ruins that sit in the middle of the city, are unrestored and still being studied.  This was a surprising climb - there were multiple levels and each one was kind of hidden from the one prior. So every time you thought you had got to the top ...... well there was more!

Donna and Brian just about to begin the climb at Kinich Kakmo

Stave 1

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Tim and Brian meet the next variation

Stave 2

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and then the great pyramid

Stave 3

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On the last climb my sister and I were definitely using both hands and feet to maneuver ourselves - especially on the way down. It definitely was not any steeper than the Great Pyramid at Uxmal... but the broken and loose stones made it quite precarious.

looking back at the city of Izamal from the top of the ruins

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My last bit of wonder / learning from Izamal was this plastic bag of water hanging from the rafters at the local restaurant there. Actually there were many of these bags hung from the rafters - approximately one every 6' or so. Of course, we asked the maitre d' the reason. He explained that it was a fly deterrent. Seems that flys will see a larger version of themselves .... extra big fly eyes - starring back at them and they will get scared and fly away. 

We did not see any flies during our lunch ......

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NOT in the POD - finding a rhythm

Tim and I 

Hacienda Xcanatun

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We have fallen into a comfortable rhythm. Our days start early with the myriad of bird calls mixed with the sounds of a city coming to life - of both voices and vehicles. Tim has gotten back into his daily morning swim - a practice that he has missed ever since we left Florida 5 years ago.
(Not sure how we are going to trailer a pool in our POD lifestyle....)

I usually begin each day with a little work time  -  answering emails and sometimes doing a lot more.....
I have actually gotten a lot done since being here. Full time internet access really helps in sending designs and pics off to India without worry.
Ultimately, it is not a bad setting to be working in!

At work 
Casa Donna and Brian
Merida, Yucatan

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We have had many excursions to the ruins, museums and other towns of interest usually including a long drive, a lunch out - with margaritas - and then home to a refreshing dip in the pool and some siesta time. We have followed these very busy days with a quiet day at home. For me - I usually spend that day working or posting to the blog. It has been a nice balance for me.

Thus far in the POD we have not yet established a daily rhythm to our lives. Mostly because we have been visiting friends and tuning ourselves to their patterns of time and life. Which, for now, has been fine.
But, I have been wondering how it will be for us in the POD - as a lifestyle - and how long will that take to establish our personal rhythms. Will it be more difficult in 19'? Easier... ?
We have so much to learn.

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Dinner the other evening was at Hacienda Xcanatun - another beautifully restored hacienda that has been made into a resort, restaurant, and spa. The grounds were glorious and the dinner was superb - local foods done with a bit of a twist. As the sun set the grounds slowly filled with small farolitos lighting the paths through the garden.
Magical.


Donna and Brian
Hacienda Xcanatun

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 After dinner we attended a concert - held in the small chapel on the grounds. Every hacienda had its own chapel - as well as hospital, jail, and store. All the important stuff I guess.  The International String Quartet of Yucatan played the Haydn string  quartet in D minor and Elgar's string quartet in E minor which was - seemingly - not for everyone - but I loved it, especially the melodious II and III.
I really enjoyed the selection of these two pieces as they balanced each other quite well. And the Elgar truly showcased the groups' virtuosity.
All in all it was a lovely setting in which to listen and drift......

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And so on we go.....

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NOT in the POD - Hennequin Hacienda

one of the many verandas at the hacienda

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Yesterday was spent in the countryside outside of Merida - sometimes getting lost on tiny potholed backroads and sometimes not. It was another beautiful day filled with great sights and lots of historical learnings - my favorite kind of day! 

We started early and headed to Souta de Peon - a working hennequin plantation built in the 1800’s. After the hennequin trade died out early in the 1900’s the hacienda and fields were abandoned and fell into disrepair. Bought in the mid 80’s this hacienda has now been restored to its original grandeur and the fields have been replanted and now create jobs and sisal for local use and sale.

the grounds around the hacienda

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Learning about the growing and processing of the white agave plant (hennequin) was fascinating!

Blue agave is used in making tequila, green agave is used for mescal and the white agave, know for its sturdy, fibrous spines is used to make sisal. 

Once established hennequin plants live for 25 years. They produce their own "pups" (babies) which pop up next to the larger plant and are cut from the mother plant and can easily be planted elsewhere. 

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hennequin fields

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hennequin processing - stage 1

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The spines of the hennequin plant are loaded on a conveyor belt up to the machine that crushes them. Only 20 spines from each plant can be cut in a single year. 

hennequin processing - stage 2

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Workers lay out the spines in a single layer to roll through the machinery.

The runoff of pulp and liquid from the crushing process is saved to feed cattle and to fertilize the fields.

Fibers emerge from the other side of the machinery

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The runoff of pulp and liquid from the crushing process is saved to feed cattle and to fertilize the fields. Each one of these tied bundles is approximately 8 spines…. there is a LOT of fiber in each spine!

The fibers are dried in the sun for around 3 hours.

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 hennequin fibers dried and pressed into bales

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Once dried the fibers are laid in huge bundles that are pressed together and tied in bales for shipment. During the heyday of the hennequin trade only the raw material - processed and dried - was shipped for final finishing and production elsewhere. The final finishing was done locally only for immediate use such as the ropes needed to tie the bales for shipment.

In  order to finish the dried raw material it first had to be "combed". 

Tim hard at work

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Tim nobly volunteered to try his hand at the combing process! Once combed the fibers could be twisted - by machine or by hand - to make rope of all sizes. It could also be woven into a rough burlap-like cloth for bags, coverings, etc. Luckily, Tim was not a Mayan forced into servitude at the hands of the Spaniards who originally ran this hacienda (there were approximately 1,000 "workers"!). For his efforts he was given the rope he ended up making!

Then it was time for a mule tour of the fields and a refreshing dip! This hacienda had 8 cenotes (underground lakes) on the grounds - one of which was open to the public. WOW! Down a series of steps - maybe 3 flights? - there was a cave complete with stalactites, open “skylights” to the world above, and pristine waters to swim in!

Donna and I in the cenote!

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And then, as if it could not get any better, ..... a bar! 

Cheers!

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Tim and I on top of the Great Pyramid, Uxmal

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NOT in the POD - Merida, Mexico

 My sister's pool .........

Ahhhhhhhhh!

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So we parked the POD at the Houston airport - having left New Orleans early in the morning - and caught our flight to Merida, Mexico. Spending 10 days with my sister, Donna, and Brian at their new home here was always part of our road trip plan ..... and the warm, DRY sun was a welcome relief after the humidity of SW FL and NOLA!

Palace of the Governor's 

Merida, Mexico

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Merida is a large colonial city smack dab in the center of the Yucatan. We spent the first day - a Sunday - wandering the streets of Centro, the main plaza, churches, and a number of museums and cultural centers (all free). The parks were overflowing with families enjoying the music seemingly in every plaza and the street shows put on especially for the children. Vendors were set up through the parks selling embroidered clothing, sisal bags and ornaments, food, jewelry and everything in between. It was a brilliant cacophony of smells, colors, and sounds - so much to take in!

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Pyramid of the Magician

Uxmal, Yucatan

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 Today we headed out to Uxmal - an ancient Maya city about an hour outside of Merida - founded around 700 AD. It was so impressive in scale, layout and beauty! Visitors are still able to climb many of the steps to the tops of the ruins (not for the feint of heart..........) and you can really get a sense of place and size.   Much of Uxmal is still being excavated and when you are on top of one of these structures you can these areas in the distance poking thru the trees.

It was magical to be walking among the stories of the ancients. I was also really happy that our son, Tyler had an entire Grade 6 unit on Mayan culture ...... I remembered a lot of it! - having helped him study and edited his report! 

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The Nunnery Quadrangle 

Uxmal, Yucatan

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The Great Pyramid

Uxmal, Yucatan

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After that we visited the Chocolate Museum nearby. It was incredibly informative - I never knew how difficult it was to grow cacoa, how it spread around the globe, and the process of making good chocolate. Set in a beautiful agricultural park this was a worthwhile visit.

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 For lunch we visited a restored hennequin hacienda not too far from Uxmal. It was like an oasis in the desert. The grounds were exquisite and the food regional and delicious. 

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tamales for lunch!

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tracks and equipment for hauling the hennequin from the field to processing

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nave of the old church at the hacienda

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A very beautiful day !

Each day so far we have returned home for a refreshing dip in the pool (ahhh....) and some respite from the heat.

We have already fallen into the pattern of needing a siesta by 4:30 - both from the heat as well as all the walking/looking (and maybe because of too many cervesa/margaritas  .... ) 

Tomorrow will maybe be a day to chill out and simply enjoy being at this beautiful home.

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carvings at the top of the Great Pyramid

Uxmal, Yucatan

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in the POD - NOLA

Streetcar tracks along the Mississippi

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We arrived in New Orleans in the fog and rain after having driven thru much of the same since leaving the campground in Florida that morning. I had chosen the most coastal ( longest) route thinking that  we would be presented with sweeping views of the Gulf and white sand beaches to stop at. Heck, my Coastal Living  magazine led me to believe this would be true!

Well - no and no. Between the fog, the stop and go traffic, the mini malls, and the sprawl of development we were both wishing we never left the campground. 

Highlights however were driving thru the town of Appalachicola - beautiful and quaint and the home of the inventor of the ice machine and the waters around Carabelle, home of the smallest police station (it is actually a phone booth!)

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Our urban campground, NOLA

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We finally settle in at Jude Travel Park  around 6pm and grab some local take out; jambalaya, sautéed cat fish, and fried shrimp. Quite yummy!

We wake to pouring rain which finally lets up @ 10 and head into the French Quarter - approx. 5 mi away - by cab.

Jackson Square, NOLA

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Truly a vibe of its own - the area has a European flair. It is part theme park - with alcohol -  and part historical / architectural lesson. It was both my worst nightmare (Bourbon Street) and my most enjoyable walking  ( most every other street). 

The main streets Bourbon, Royal, and French Market were filled with people by the time we arrived. Yet most of the cross streets were always quite calm. Needless to say in a city where liquor is sold in CVS and every place offers "cocktails to go" there was a whole lot of drinking going on!!

We saw 4 guys (all peddling a 4 person bike) crash into a car while they were all checking out a flock of women in tutus, a lot of adults with painted faces - many of which, I am sure, were totally unaware that their face was painted and lots of interesting fashion choices!

We did have a lot of fun wandering (and people watching) and found interesting and quiet places to visit. The Pharmacy Museum was our fav! Constructed in 1823 by the first licensed pharmacist in America it is filled with an amazing collection of tools of the trade.  This odd museum was WAY better than the Penis Museum in Iceland!!

Another great stop was Madame John's Legacy, a colonial Creole home dating from 1720. On exhibit there now is a collection of Newcomb Pottery which was exquisite.

Of course, Voodo shops and praline confectioners were also on the list of places we went.

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Lunch was at the Royal House Oyster Bar. 1/2 dz. of the fattest, creamiest, and most tender oysters I have ever eaten! Jeffrey, our shucker/server at the bar, reccomended the redfish beignets and the crab claws and we were not unhappy with either!!! 

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French Quarter home

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There was music everywhere - bands inside most venues and bands on most streets. One zydeco band was really good! Wish we could have stayed up late enough to enjoy some at one of the music clubs.... Maybe next time.

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Tim sporting a "to go" cocktail!

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We took the St. Charles trolley to the Garden District and did a self guided architectural tour around Lafayette Cemetary. The area was gorgeous - mostly grand homes with impeccable landscaping. Although there were a few adorable small cottages. 

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One of the many parades - this one is the first of many to celebrate St. Patrick's Day!

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It was time to head back to the campground. Once you start recognizing the same tourists - and the same street people - it is time to move on!

Getting back to the POD was a bit of a nightmare... remember it's an adventure.

Off to Houston airport in the morning. On to Merida, Mexico!

On a bathroom wall - NOLA

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Favorite overheard line: 2 women walking together  - " I made the right choice. I chose the right Wiccan"

In the POD - the panhandle

Headed west off of 75 just around Ocala passing thru mostly dairy and cattle farms. Flat and mostly open vistas dotted with what looked to be tree farms of tall Southern White Pine.

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We even passed over the Suwanee River- better known as the 

Swanee River made famous by the Stephen Foster song. Who knew it was in Florida!?

We pulled into the Ochlockonee River State Park around 4pm and were more than delighted with this little campground! 

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Filled with walking trails the park also has kayaks for rent. The area was filled with birds, white squirrels, white deer and more!

We could easily have spent 3 days here. But we are on to New Orleans!

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