In the POD - Arkansas, museums and family

 

Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art

Bentonville, AR

 Founded by philanthropist and arts patron Alice Walton, Crystal Bridges opened on November 11, 2011, and welcomes all with free admission. Set over a natural spring by the same name the museum sits seamlessly in the environment built with materials that will patina and age along with its natural surroundings. The permanent collection spans 5 centuries of American art and is committed to telling broad and inclusive stories by acquiring and showcasing the highest quality works by artists underrepresented in art history. And let me tell you - they do that perfectly. 

This museum has been on my list for a number of years… but being tucked away in the NW .corner of Arkansas made it a seemingly difficult visit. Truthfully, there was nothing else around. However, this year, another year of Covid, another year of not traveling made me realize that we had to do this…. Now. 

And I am so glad that we did! The grounds, the architecture of the museum itself, it’s connection to the area, and, of course the art itself is stunning. 

Our Town

Kerry James Marshall

Pink Bird Figure II

Helen Frankenthaler

There were so many amazing artists represented that I did not know (notes written to learn about) and many artists that I did know of, and yet I had not seen these pieces. The flow/curation of the museum, as well as the documentation, was well presented making for a wonderful experience. 

The Reader

Emma Amos

Number 184T

Leonardo Drew

Ambulance Call

Jacob Lawrence 

Untitled

Felrath Hines

All I can say is that this was a perfect day. Enough for one’s eyes and enough for one’s soul.

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For the two (plus) days we were in the Fayetteville, AR area we visited with Tim’s niece Sierra, her husband Christopher, their 3 year old, Simon and her in laws, Tracy and Michael. Hats off to the Beckers family for opening their home, their lives, their kitchen, and their hearts! We waltzed into a beautiful family dynamic and the music never stopped…….. thank you so much! ❤️❤️❤️

In the POD - Hot Springs National Park

 

Hot Springs!

Hot Springs National Park was designated as a National park in 1921. It’s 5,500 acres of forested mountains surround the downtown area of the city of Hot Springs, Arkansas - creating a true urban park.

In the early 1800’s explorers in the Ouachita Mountains were told of the hot waters that people would soak in to “recover their health” and in 1832 Congress declared a four square mile reservation to protect the water for public use. By the late 1860’s  the area began to draw many people lured by the promise of improved health and at the turn of the century Hot Springs was among the most visited health resorts in the U.S. boasting many fine hotels and opulent bathhouses. Today there are 9 remaining bathhouse buildings - most repurposed. 

We visited the Fordyce Bathhouse which is now the park’s visitor center. Built in 1915 this elegant building houses, as a museum, separate men’s and women’s baths, dressing rooms, massage rooms, a gymnasium and social areas set up to recreate what it looked like in its heyday. The men’s bathing area features a large domed stained glass ceiling with a sculpture of Hernando DeSoto and an “Indian” maiden as the room’s centerpiece. Questionable at best…. Needless to say, the women’s  bathing area was quite utilitarian. 

Fordyce Bathhouse men’s bathing area

We were scheduled to have hot spring baths and massages at the Buckstaff Baths, the only bathhouse on the row to operate continuously for over a century, but our reservations were canceled at the last minute due to Covid. 

Buckstaff Baths

We did, however, find a bathhouse that offered us something that made us both quite happy. Superior Bathouse Brewery! Yes! The only brewery located within a national park, it occupies one of the remaining bathhouses, and it uses the park’s thermal spring water as their main ingredient. Okay…. So instead of sitting in the thermal water we drank it and instead of getting a massage we drank it! 

All good.

Superior Bathhouse Brewery

As one enters the park on foot, running behind the row of bathhouses, there is the Grand Promenade. Wide, bricked and surrounded by plantings this walkway was the outdoor accompaniment to the indoor “health restorative”. The promenade is .5 miles one way and is the entry point for many of the trails that run up into the park. There is also a one way loop drive inside the park to the top of Hot Springs Mountain. Along the drive there are occasional pull outs for additional access to the many trails within. 

The Grand Promenade 

The loop road was steep and winding (similar to most of the roads we have encountered here in Arkansas!) Near the top there is a tower that will carry you up 216 feet to an observation deck for views of Hot Springs Mountain and the vast Ouachita Mountains. It’s an approximate 1.5 mile trail hike to the tower from the park entrance. It was difficult to get any good pictures inside the park because the trails are all quite narrow and tree lined.

The most amazing thing about this park is the geology. Unlike many hot springs - like Iceland, which are volcanic in nature - the springs here are created by a complex system of of faults and fractures in the rocks. Rain and snow trickle into cracks of brittle rock ( novaculite and chert). Gravity pulls the water downward into the earths’s crust and the water’s temperature increases with the depth. When the water eventually reaches a major fault on Hot Springs Mountain, pressure propels it back upward. Through carbon dating experts have determined that it takes almost 4,500 YEARS for the water to complete this journey! It emerges from the springs at @ 143 degrees F. 

Wow! 

Most of the hot springs within the park have been capped/covered since the turn of the century in order to protect them from contamination, however, there are 4 on display along Bathhouse Row where you can touch the water. There’s are also 3 additional thermal spring fountains and 2 cold spring fountains where you can fill up bottles. 

While visiting Hot Springs we stayed for 3 days at  Lake Ouachita State Park. Approximately 30 minutes away it was nestled in the mountains….. so quiet and peaceful - we saw only 3 other campers the entire time. There was ZERO connectivity in the park but it was actually quite welcome for us right now…. Lots of conversation over what we had seen in the past week. 

Lake Ouachita State Park

Today was a POD care/self care day. Before moving on to our next stop we spent the morning taking stock, filling/emptying tanks, cleaning and replacing water filters etc. We also then found a laundromat because, yeah, you have to make time for that. We took our time through the rest of the Ouachita National Forest - more winding roads. 

Tonight we are spending the night at Lake Dardanelle State Park - another pristine mountain lake.

Lake Dardanelle State Park

in the POD - the weeping time

*Photo of museum from their website

Water surrounding you, swallowing you. An ocean that is angry and loud.

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That is what you are confronted with as you step inside the first room of the Legacy Museum: From Slavery to Mass Incarceration, in Montgomery, AL. It is just you and a 20’ tall video screen of churning and crashing waves - seemingly shot from the water line - and  the constant roar of a storm. A bit shocked by the sight and sounds you stiffen up and push back.  But the longer you stand there watching the weaker you become…… and you are lulled into the abyss.

 Helpless.

The Legacy Museum, opened in the spring of 2018, is housed in a warehouse building that once stored cotton and is steps from one of the most active slave auction sites in America. Using sculpture, text, video, holograms, first person accounts, and photos the museum painstakingly shows how slavery, after Reconstruction, was “dusted off and repurposed” in the American penal system.

There are many “ghosts” that guide you along this journey - from the haunting sculptures of faces and torsos that rise up from the depths of the ocean as you are pulled through the second room, the life size holograms of human beings in cages crying out for help, the towering walls lined with clear jars filled with the dirt from lynching sites and the inmates sitting on the other side of the glass connected to you by only a telephone. So many untold stories. So many continue to be untold….. 

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Memorial for Peace and Justice 

Memorial for Peace and Justice

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A short shuttle bus ride from the museum is the Memorial for Peace and Justice. Water is an important element here as well. It is the tears for those lost and it is the tears that allow us to heal. The memorial seems to be growing out of the top of a hill and as you walk up the angled walkways it’s hard edges of concrete and metal come into focus. Rusted metal coffins emblazoned with the county and state and the names and dates of those lynched are hung from a wooden ceiling. I do not know how many counties are represented - all I know is that it was overwhelming. 

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“Over the course of three days, while the rains poured down on the open square in the center of Montgomery, over 450 men, women and children were sold off. It became known as the weeping time.”

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in the POD - an extended road trip .....

 

Wright Brothers National Memorial

Kitty Hawk, NC

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With the world, once again, begging us to engage we decided to take our newly completed POD, our vaccination certificates, and the need for adventure out for a spin.  A 3 week spin. The first goal is to continue to test the systems of the van in new situations, off grid, and in heat. The second - and probably the most important - is to reconnect with distant friends that we have not seen in years! 

Our first real stop was in Raleigh, NC to spend an afternoon and evening with some dear friends that we have not seen in 7 years since they relocated from Florida to NC! Allyson and Mike have created a wonderful home for themselves and their two young girls, Emma and Morgan (and their dogs, Bailey and Zipper!) - each of them welcoming us into their home and life. We all caught up and settled in for relaxed conversation and an amazing dinner that Mike had prepared! I must admit the fig, arugula, prosciutto, goat cheese and SMOKED walnut pizza was my absolute fav!!! As well as the smoked Bourbon Old-Fashioned!!! Mike is VERY into smoking.

The thing about relationships with good friends ..... they never dissipate! 

Alas.....There are no pics from this perfect get-together .... we were too busy enjoying the company! 

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We left Raleigh the following morning and headed east to the Outer Banks. The Outer Banks are a 200 mile string of barrier islands along the South Virginia and North Carolina coast.  Traversing over 10 miles of bridges we entered the series of islands just south of Nag's Head and headed south along the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. 

Along our right we could see the low grasses that led out to the intercoastal and on our left were, first, stilt homes piled together and then ..... dunes. 

It was 60 miles of this - and a few bridges - to get to the south end of Hatteras, Frisco, NC. We camped at Frisco Campground, a NPS maintained campground. Scattered among the dunes the camp was bare, isolated, and perfect. 

the boardwalk from the campground to the beach

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We love barrier island beaches - and this 60+ miles of beach was over whelming to say the least. However, I was very surprised as we climbed over the dunes to reach the ocean (yes... you can actually walk on all these dunes except for those areas specifically marked by the rangers) because I did not expect to see a beach filled with  SUVs! All of the beach is 4 wheel drive accessible - which I guess makes sense because it is so big and wide. 

The picture below does not clearly capture the number of vehicles - all lined up next to each other - with added tents, awnings, inflatable pools, fishing equipment.......

I believe it was the most crowded beach I have ever been on!

Frisco Beach, Cape Hatteras NC

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It truly is a beautiful beach. The water was crystal clear and quite warm. We walked the beach in awe of the amount of people and, unfortunately, also in awe of the amount of HUGE "Trump 2024" flags planted in the sand ...... ugh. We headed back to camp after a few miles deciding that an early morning beach walk might just be a bit more relaxing. The evening was star-filled, quiet and very warm.

peaceful.....

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The next day we visited the Wright Brothers National Memorial at Kitty Hawk. Of course, we all learned about what these men had accomplished - but it was really quite inspiring to see the spot - the approximate 100' high sand dune (now planted with grass so that it does not shift/disappear) that they had carried the glider up for each test, the wooden shacks they lived and worked in, the markers where they did each of the four test flights from ...... each flight teaching them something new and each flight going just a bit further! 

The exhibit in the visitor center was also very well done explaining their process and the principles of flight that they slowly learned and there is also a replica of the plane they built for these first historic sights. 

Replica Wright Brothers airplane 1903

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We saw the original plane at the National Air and Space Museum in Washington, DC. However, that one is suspended very high above and actually difficult to see up close. It was wonderful to be able to walk fully around the replica no more than 10' away and truly understand the scale of it.

monument on the dune at Kill Devil Hills

Wright Bros National Memorial

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Wanting to experience another NPS camping site on the Outer Banks, we moved into Oregon Inlet Campground which was much closer to the center of the island near Nag's Head. 

Also nestled within the dunes, this campground did provide some electric hook-ups (which we did not choose) but the slots were spaced very close together and it definitely was not as relaxing as the last. 

We were only there for one night ...... so it was fine.

The walk to the beach from the campground was actually lovely and our early morning dip in the ocean was divine.

morning over the dunes

Oregon Inlet Campground

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The next morning we headed to Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. It is the home of the first Roanoke settlements of the 1500's - well known as the Lost Colony - as well as the first Freedmen's settlement in 1862 during the Civil War. 

The visitor center was filled with artifacts and displays of historical information.

I cannot say enough about the NPS and the multitude of sites that they oversee, support, preserve and teach from. At every site we have visited we have always encountered rangers that have been knowledgeable and welcoming. 

We attended a ranger talk on the first Freedmen's settlement which was very enlightening, informative and just so happened to be delivered to us by a young, female Black ranger on June Thirteenth! 

Seemed like the exact thing we should be doing at that moment in time.

Roanoke Island looking into the sound

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Besides the visitor center Fort Raleigh has a few walking trails, a theatre that has produced "The Lost Colony" play since 1937 (!), and archeological evidence of structural berns used for protection. Its well worth visit - history!

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And of course .... we found a brewery!

Outer Banks Brewing Station

Kill Devil, NC

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in the POD - goin' back to Massachusetts.....

 

Wells State Park

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There are 31 state parks in MA that allow camping. We have been huge fans of Horseneck Beach State Park in Westport, MA and have repeatedly gone there over the years. However, this past month we tried out 2 new parks and have been enamored with each one!  Both beautiful - and each totally different from the last. It has kind of made me re-imagine some travel plans ..... we do not, necessarily, need to always plan extended trips. We could do lots of mini road trips to more local places - exploring those spots much closer to home. 

We had a family wedding to attend in Salisbury, MA - at the same farm that Ty and Amy got married at 6 years ago! So we booked a few nites at Salisbury Beach State Park. Located at the southern end of Salisbury Beach where the Merrimack River empties into the Atlantic, the campground is HUGE with over 400 sites and is, by far, the largest campground we have ever stayed in. That said, although a bit "sardined" in, the camp was well maintained and the access to the beach - both on the ocean and river sides - were easy to access and provided for wonderful walking and views.

along the Merrimack River

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We wandered around downtown Salisbury - an old beach town and summer tourist destination. Your typical pizza stand, arcades, cotton candy kind of place. We watched as various "getting ready for the season" projects were being undertaken - a fresh coat of paint here and there, repairs on the downtown merry-go-round. 

We ended up having lunch at a gorgeous spot overlooking the ocean - Seaglass Oceanside . Tuna poke and steamed mussels. Perfect.

sky, surf and sand on the Atlantic

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Later that day and the next we walked the oceanside and river beaches. 

And for the wedding we actually had to look presentable - for the first time in 15 months!!! 

wedding day!

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The following week we headed to Wells State Park in Sturbridge, MA for a 4 day stay. With over 1,400 acres this park has 60 sites - some of which overlook Walker Pond, and 10 miles of hiking trails. Our site was perched on a small hill overlooking the pond. Every camping spot was situated for privacy and you truly felt alone .......

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settling in

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down by the pond

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hiking one of the trails

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This was a pristine campground and each spot was perfect in its own way. Could easily return here gain and again ....... except we DO have 28 more state parks to check out!

in the POD - two visits to Horseneck Beach State Park

A perfect day at the beach

Horseneck Beach State Park, MA

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 As we head into a long and extremely rainy Memorial Day weekend I'm enjoying reliving our past two POD excursions to Horseneck Beach State Park. Horseneck Beach is one of our favorite places to escape to - this park is easy to get to, not too big, very basic and picture perfect!

Our first visit was just over a week ago - May 18th - 21st. It was our first extended stay in the POD and since this state park has no hook ups (electric/water) we were making sure that all our off-grid systems were working well. 

A choice spot!

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We settled into our favorite camping spot - on the end of the front row with a full ocean view! The sound of the waves and the sweeping clouds made the best company and we fully enjoyed the stillness that being in nature envelopes us with. Truthfully, I had not been this relaxed and peaceful in over a year! In the middle of our second day there both Tim and I felt that we had been there a week!! 

We walked and we biked every day because the weather was simply glorious. And we tried to figure out a "traveling" exercise routine...... Normally, we each start our days with @ 40 min of yoga/stretching or floor exercises. Because of space constraints that is difficult to do in the POD so we tried to work on some modifications because it will become more crucial as we begin to travel more and for longer periods of time. 

At the western edge of the campground there is a 2 mile bike/walking path between the dunes from the campground to the large public beach. The dunes are filled with both pink and white rosa rugosa and are the perfect habitat for the nesting plovers this time of year. We have often seen mothers herding their chicks up over the dunes away from the path!  From the east there is a small path out to a road which takes one over a small causeway to Goosberry Island (Gumby's Head on some maps). We love to walk out there - the east side of the island is mostly sandy and usually quite calm while the western side is very rocky with a much more active surf. Approximately 2 miles from the island - along a coastal road - is a small restaurant we often bike to for an afternoon meal, The Bayside. They have generous outdoor seating and views of Allen's Pond Wildlife Sanctuary across the road. The food is excellent.

Western edge of Gooseberry Island

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Tim spent much of his time working on a POD manual. Since it is his "creation" he realized he needed to begin documenting all the how-tos and where-ares! This seems like a perfect follow-up project for him ..... and it should take some time. When I wasn't simply staring at the sky and letting my mind wander and relax I did spend time reading and doing a bit of drawing. 

We did not want to see these four days come to a close......

absolute perfection!

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Literally before we left the campground I went online to see if there was any single date available the following week. We so wanted to take Rosie there for an overnight! Which is how we ended up back there on Thursday, the 27th with Rosie all excited about a new adventure.

A fish in the making.....

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Thursday morning arrived and we knew that an impeccable beach day was in the making. Check in time at the campground isn't until 1 pm so we headed first to the public beach so Rosie could get some sand and surf time in before we went to the campground. The beach was pretty crowded for a mid week day but the sun was shining and the waves were crashing and.... well.... she LOVED it! Mostly fearless she tried jumping over the waves, tried pushing them back, yelling at them, and was fascinated by the strength of the waves as they pulled her legs back into the ocean. 

As soon as we got to the campground she wanted to head to the water again! Unstoppable. Bucket in hand we collected lots of shells, rocks, 1 dead crab, and, of course, we were back in the water numerous times. By the end of a very full day in the sun day we were all in need of some quiet time. Rosie calmed herself with an art project and Tim and I calmed ourselves with a beverage........

how big is your world?

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traveling art show

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We cooked dinner outside (on our butane burner sitting on top of the pit grill!) so that Rosie could have a full camping experience. She was so eager and helpful and the full day obviously gave her quite the appetite because she ate a hot dog AND a piece of chicken!

perfectly helpful; in every way

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The day ended with watching the sun set - brilliantly orange as it dipped below the horizon. Rosie had never seen a totally unobstructed sunset before and she was in awe! It was difficult for me to decide what to look at - the beauty of this rich sunset or the stunning curiosity and wonder on Rosie's face.......

guess what I chose?

That evening we sat in the cab windows as twilight came and talked of life and camping and the ocean and where the sun goes on the other side of the world. I read "Digging to China" by Donna Rawlins to Rosie as we settled into bed. This was a book that Tyler loved as a child and the first time I've read it to Rosie. It was perfect.

The following morning, after breakfast, we had a beach walk at the campground, checked out by our 11 am check out time and then proceeded to drive over to Gooseberry Island to wander the the beaches there.

leading the way

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We walked for close to 2 miles - which, in retrospect, was a bit too much for Rosie. But she was a champion and held up until very close to the end. She was excited to get home and see her Mom and Dad - one night and close to 2 days away is just perfect right now for her. And for us - we each get special time with her and .... its probably just the perfect amount of time right now for us.

Gooseberry Island

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meeting of the minds......

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in the POD - Our Kids Farm

Nigerian Dwarf goats

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We recently joined Harvest Hosts - a membership program for self contained RVers who want to stay at vineyards, farms, and other unique locations! There are a lot of fairly local options that we are eager to try out and decided that a one night stay not to far away would be a perfect first experience for Rosie to join us!

We chose "Our Kids Farm" in Canterbury, Conn. Just over an hour away, this small dairy goat farm raises Nigerian Dwarf goats and makes soaps and cheeses. Their farm store sells these products along with other locally made items. The farm has many other animals too - including horses, donkeys, cows and chickens. 

All alone at the farm.

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We were the farm's only guests for the night although the farm store did have a number of customers throughout the afternoon. There was a lot of acreage to wander - fields and woodlands - and Rosie felt very comfortable exploring the area .... always 20' or more ahead of us. Racing ahead and then back to us. 

a whirlwind

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Pre-dinner craft time!

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I packed an art case especially for Rosie filled with supplies, along with a few craft kits. And just like clockwork, as Tim began to cook dinner, Rosie said; "Oh, I wish we had a craft to do...." 

And just like that I was able to supply the magic!

We dined simply on soup and grilled cheese sandwiches with ice cream for dessert. 

6:30 am. Looking out the window and drawing what she sees

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Morning came quite early and Rosie busied herself with drawing a picture of the farm 

while we - slowly - woke up!

After breakfast and a mid morning walk we proceeded to Old Furnace State Park for a short hike and lunch before heading home. All in all, Rosie was a pretty excellent camper and is already looking forward to her next time in the van!

So are we!!!!

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Tim and Rosie celebrating that the van is completed!!