Hobby-Eberly Telescope on Mount Fowlkes
Fort Davis, TX
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We continued our travels into SW Texas through the unspoiled Chihuahuan Desert and then high into the Davis Mountains. We ended up in Fort Davis, TX and booked two nites at Davis Mountain State Park, nestled in a valley - quiet, pristine and a damn good night sky!
Fort Davis is a small town; a one mile town that could be any western style studio back lot. Its history began as a military post in 1854, charged with protecting immigrants, freight and mail coaches from Comanche and Apache Indian raids. Okay - I’m not going to parse the protecting from the Native Americans part because that is a loosing proposition. However - the “protecting of immigrants” part of that statement is what I am kindly pointing out. Just saying.
Anyway, this fort then became the home of the 9th US Calvary in 1867 - the Buffalo Soldiers!
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Original telescope at McDonald Observatory
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And yet the coolest thing about Fort Davis and the surrounding Davis Mountains is that it is home to McDonald Observatory!! It is a research facility of the University of Texas at Austin which was first established in the mid 30’s and has grown to include other universities and observatories around the world. We did a self tour of the facilities - which was oh so informative and fascinating. Currently there are 2 major telescopes on Mount Locke and the newest (1997) Hobby-Eberly Telescope on Mount Fowlkes. This telescope is currently working on the “Dark Energy Experiment” (HETDEX)! I KNOW!!
In a nutshell - it seems that our universe is expanding at a much higher rate than expected. Initially scientists believed that the expansion should be slowing down due to the gravitational pull from all the mass in the universe - as a result of the Big Bang. But no. So they are trying to figure out what is pushing the galaxies apart by mapping the expansion….. and they need these massive telescopes to do it. And a whole lot of smart people thinking about it - all the time.
It was fascinating up there on those windswept hilltops! I learned so much history and the real science behind measuring stars and distances. It made me want to be an astronomer in my next life…….
“Dark energy is a phrase we use to represent the unknown. We know that the universe is expanding faster than expected, but we don’t know what is causing the acceleration. For now we simply call it dark energy, but it may not be dark, and it may not be energy.” Astrophysics Professor Karl Gebhardt, University of Texas at Austin
Chinati Foundation
Marfa, TX
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In the afternoon we headed south to Marfa. A somewhat strangely interesting spot, Marfa is basically a rural cattle ranch town in the middle of nowhere. The town first became known because it was the film location for the film “Giant” (Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, and James Dean). But then in 1971, the artist Donal Judd moved there from NYC. His plan was to permanently install his art in the area and he lived and worked here until his death in 1994. The Chinati foundation, opened in 1986, is a contemporary art museum based on on the ideas of Judd. It preserves and presents permanent large scale installations by artists where art, architecture and the surrounding landscape are linked. There are a handful of other galleries - all only open by appointment. The town itself is a mix of beautifully refurbished, simple adobe and wood homes and those that have yet to be refurbished. There are two hotels - one where the cast of “Giant” stayed, a grand 2 story adobe structure and one very artsy, and well styled one. That is it.
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Donald Judd
15 untitled works in concrete (1980-84)
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We headed to Chinati. Chinati is located at the site of Fort D.A. Russell - a U.S. military base that was active from 1900 through WW II. Barracks, warehouses, and artillery sheds were renovated by Judd to be used as exhibition and work spaces. The 2 main galleries that house changing exhibitions are only open, by guided tour and by appointment. We viewed the 2 installations by Judd that were available to us.
Outside, along the edge of the property were 15 untitled works in concrete (1980-84). As I walked the path to get close to them I noticed 3 or 4 large concrete watering troughs … I wondered if they were the inspiration. I loved the pieces set against the backdrop of the flat monochromatic plains running into the distance - but I loved them even better imagining that they actually grew out of the water troughs.
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Inside 2 of the beautifully re-done, dramatic artillery sheds we saw 100 untitled works in mill aluminum. Each piece, a rectangular box with the same exterior dimension - maybe 4’ high x 8’ long x 4’ wide - but with different interior divisions of space. Mill aluminum is heavy, but soft - and the milling process creates a very reflective surface. All the pieces were lined up, 3 rows, 3 across in this light filled cavernous space. The bright sun coming thru the floor to ceiling windows created a myriad of tones on the aluminum and at some angles it looked like glass. Shining, dull, dark - and then again different on each level, looking across the room, on my knees looking through/around them.
Fascinating.
No photos were allowed inside - so here are two photos of postcards......
100 untitled works in mill aluminum
Donald Judd
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inside the artillery hanger with 100 untitled works in mill aluminum
Donald Judd
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We were happy that we made this trek to Marfa - it was not on my list, but when I saw how close we were I figured we had to go. (seeing I actually have no reason to return to Texas now)
We ended our afternoon in Marfa at the “artsy” hotel for drinks and a late lunch. It was perfect and exactly what we needed - some real time comfort in a very nice space. Wagu beef hamburger, a brisket sandwich, and a most delicious hot pepper margarita followed by some local beers! Sitting there enjoying the atmosphere, the connectivity (!) and the curious mix of clientele - U.S travelers, French visitors, (each and every one of them dressed in black….. as were we….) and locals (def not in black) - we felt relaxed. A good day.
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At the end of the day as we settled back in under the trees at our quiet little campsite - all I could think about was the sky above - so ubiquitous, so constant and yet so distant and primal. And then, art - so ubiquitous, so connected and so primal.
Fort Davis State Park, TX
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