Thursday, February 22, 2018

in the POD - island to island to island

Along the rocky shoreline, Larrabee State Park, WA

*

We headed north on Chuckanut Drive - 20 miles of a very narrow, twisting and turning scenic roadway that hugs the cliffs of Chuckanut Mt above Puget Sound. Built in 1909, the road overlooks both interior gorges and waterfalls as well as the dramatic views westward to the sound. It was a perfect serendipitous choice! At most every turn, beautiful Madrona trees were clinging to the rocky cliffs. Native to the Pacific Northwest, Madronas are broad leafed evergreens with a reddish bark - that often is peeling off of the trunk and they are stunning!!

Clayton Beach, Larrabee State Park, WA

*


The weather was gray, a bit drizzly and rain threatened for the next few days. We encamped at Larrabee State Park (Washington State’s first state park!) located on Samish Bay. The campground itself was tucked in among pines, evergreens and firs - but a short, slippery hike took us out to the tidal pools and sandstone cliffs of Clayton Beach.


a walk in the woods
Larrabee State Park, WA

*

For the 2 days we were there it did mostly rain - but the occasional break in the clouds afforded us some short hikes - and the rain allowed us time to curl up, read, relax, and enjoy the quiet nature that surrounded us. Just the two of us, in the POD, in the woods. 

Madrona tree, Larrabee State Park, WA

*

On the third day we continued north to Bellingham, WA and spent the afternoon shopping and exploring the Fairhaven historic district. It was a clear, yet blustery, Saturday so the streets of this quaint port town were busy with shoppers and tourists - just like us! There was a small boardwalk at the port and an overnight ferry to Alaska - hummmmmm…… I’m storing that nugget in the back of my mind for further consideration! We wandered and filled our day popping in and out of bakeries, art galleries, a used book store and … yes….. a brewery! 


Stones Throw Brewery, Fairhaven, WA

*

on the 20 car ferry to Lummi Island, WA

*

We then headed to the Lummi Island ferry. Lummi is one of the most northern of all the San Juans and has a year round population of @ 1,000 people. My childhood friend, Mary-Ellen, and her husband, Peter, have lived here for over 20 years.  This quiet, rural island is approximately 9.5 square miles of small farms, artist studios, salmon fisheries, rocky shorelines and pristine views in every direction. Most days we could easily see the snow covered mountains of Canada.

along the shore of Lummi Island

*


The four of us spent our first full day together curled up inside their house as a nor’easter of arctic wind whirled around us. It was perfect! A lazy Sunday with time to catch up - and eat….. 
The following day was crystal clear and we went for a “half round the island” walk. Along the shore line at sea level and then up along cliffs overlooking the water, past farmlands, sheep, llama, cattle, and so many eagles! The weather was colder than it had been anywhere so far on this trip but with the full sun on our faces it felt really good to be outside. 

sheep farm, Lummi Island, WA

*


Mary-Ellen and I resting after our half island stroll

*

We woke to another beautifully clear, (cold) sunny day and headed to Vancouver, BC! The Canadian border is only @ 20 miles from Lummi, so a day trip is quite easy. I had not been to Vancouver since 1984 when I was there for a month shooting a movie so I was excited to see how it had changed over the years. Our main stop was Granville Island, a small peninsula located across False Creek from downtown Vancouver. At the turn of the century this area was home to sawmills and industrial manufacturing plants but as industry moved out the empty buildings needed to find a new use. In 1979, the federal and provincial governments converted the first of many buildings. 


houseboats along False Creek
Vancouver, BC

*

Today, this area is filled with farmer’s markets, artist studios, galleries, an art center, theatre, shops, restaurants and music venues. The market and a few restaurants were there when I first visited in 1984 - but boy has it grown, along with the entire  city!! And there were so many more tall buildings going up as we surveyed the shoreline.


The Liberty Distillery, Granville Island

*

the growing skyline, Vancouver, BC

*


Like Pike Place Market, the market was brimming with fish, meat, cheeses, fruits, veggies, and many take out food spots. We shopped for dinner - fresh cod, pate with pistachios and cranberries, haricots vert, new potatoes, mushrooms, raspberries, blueberries, and 5 beautiful french pastries. Lunch and a few shops and galleries rounded out our day and we headed back, quite sated, to the border crossing. 

Red Snapper fish tacos and a local IPA for lunch
The Sand Bar, Vancouver, BC

*

We felt so pleased with ourselves - escaping to Canada for the day, shopping and exploring a bit - it had been a fun day. And then we met our border agent. 
“How long were you in Canada?”
“oh, about 5 hours”
“What was the purpose of your trip?”
“just visiting - shopping, lunch…”
“What did you buy?”
“food for dinner - fish, potatoes, fruit, veggies, dessert….”
The agent frowned and handed us a green slip. “Pull into the driveway to the left. Park. Take this paper and your passports into the building.”

We wondered if they were going to take away our dinner, we wondered if we were in trouble, we wondered what Canadian prisons were like. Mostly we waited at a very long counter for a very long time for someone to show up and acknowledge us. Mary-Ellen thought I should take out my camera and film the ordeal. I cautioned against that. Finally the “Agricultural” agent arrived and asked us what we had in the car. Nervously, we listed the items again. She asked for the car keys, told us to stay inside, and then left. Argh! As soon as she left we realized in our nervousness that we forgotten to tell her about the mushrooms and the pate …. OMG - WE HAD LIED TO THE AUTHORITIES! 

She came back much quicker than we expected and she produced the potatoes and the blueberries explaining that she would have to confiscate them. She told us that the potatoes were not labeled so it was unclear where they were grown and the blueberries were out of season therefore they were imported and could not cross the border. She handed us a pamphlet on foods allowed/not allowed so we could familiarize ourselves with the rules and sent us on our way. 

I read the pamphlet in the car. It did not, in any clear, definitive way, explain what foods would/would not be allowed. It basically said “possibly” and “depending” a lot. The haricots vert and mushrooms  were not labeled either but they were okay? The raspberries were not in season so why were they okay and the blueberries not? And, it seems, that if I had peeled the potatoes all would have been well!  At least we still had our dinner and dessert, we had a good story to tell AND we were not scolded for the pate faux pas.

Tim and I on the western side of Lummi Island
Orcas Island in the distance

*

It turned cold again our last day on Lummi Island but Mary-Ellen and I took another long walk heading in the opposite direction than the last time. Down by the ferry dock, the small library and the historic schoolhouse and then up along the shore road. It started to snow. We were able to go almost 3 miles before the wind got to us. Peter came to our rescue and we were driven back to the house. We watched the snow fall through the large picture windows that adorn the north western side of their home and settled in for the evening. Our last dinner was “skiffy - scaiff” (what my mother called  “a little bit of everything thats left over”). 
Delicious!!

Peter and I trying to be serious for the camera.....

*

All of our dinners were terrific and everyone shared in the cooking responsibilities taking turns each night. It was just so comfortable and easy to be there with friends, in our stocking feet, warming ourselves by the fire, laughing and sharing. Thats the best part of close friends; the ease of sharing, the honesty of sharing.


The sun is shining again and we are heading south to Portland, OR. Our route after that is penciled in……….


No comments:

Post a Comment