Natchez, MS
Lunch and a flight, Forks in the Road Historic Site,
Silver Street, King's Tavern
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Natchez is a small city of 15,000 people that sits about 200' above the banks of the Mississippi. The city is filled with historic homes, some dating back to its founding in the late 1700's. Prior to the Civil War Natchez boasted the largest number of millionaires in the country and was the principal port from which cotton and sugarcane were shipped. Of course, all of this on the backs of the slave labor that ran the engine of every plantation filling the lowlands of the area.
The city was quiet on the weekend we wandered around - visiting the information packed Visitor's Center, walking the trail along the banks of the Mississippi, and driving past all the grand mansions. A few stand out attractions were:
"Natchez in Historic Photographs", First Presbyterian Church - this free exhibit spans over 100 years of Natchez life beginning around 1850 and fills well over 5 rooms inside the beautiful Federal style church.
Forks in the Road - a historical marker on a small triangular plot of land, marks the spot of the largest slave market in the South running from 1833 until Union forces occupied the city in 1863.
King's Tavern - the oldest building in Natchez dating to approximately the mid 1700's and the current home of a great little restaurant, AMAZING and fun mixologist, and .... the city's first distillery, Charboneau Rum. Oh yeah!
Wiliam Johnson House - run by the NPS, this is the home of a freed slave who became a wealthy merchant in the city owning multiple barber shops and slaves of his own. For over 20 years he kept a daily diary! One of the few full accountings of the life of a freed black man.
We loved Natchez and the really friendly people that we had the opportunity to talk with and hang out with and can imagine stopping back here at some point.
Natchez is a small city of 15,000 people that sits about 200' above the banks of the Mississippi. The city is filled with historic homes, some dating back to its founding in the late 1700's. Prior to the Civil War Natchez boasted the largest number of millionaires in the country and was the principal port from which cotton and sugarcane were shipped. Of course, all of this on the backs of the slave labor that ran the engine of every plantation filling the lowlands of the area.
The city was quiet on the weekend we wandered around - visiting the information packed Visitor's Center, walking the trail along the banks of the Mississippi, and driving past all the grand mansions. A few stand out attractions were:
"Natchez in Historic Photographs", First Presbyterian Church - this free exhibit spans over 100 years of Natchez life beginning around 1850 and fills well over 5 rooms inside the beautiful Federal style church.
Forks in the Road - a historical marker on a small triangular plot of land, marks the spot of the largest slave market in the South running from 1833 until Union forces occupied the city in 1863.
King's Tavern - the oldest building in Natchez dating to approximately the mid 1700's and the current home of a great little restaurant, AMAZING and fun mixologist, and .... the city's first distillery, Charboneau Rum. Oh yeah!
Wiliam Johnson House - run by the NPS, this is the home of a freed slave who became a wealthy merchant in the city owning multiple barber shops and slaves of his own. For over 20 years he kept a daily diary! One of the few full accountings of the life of a freed black man.
We loved Natchez and the really friendly people that we had the opportunity to talk with and hang out with and can imagine stopping back here at some point.
Natchez, MS
Hidden home, walls along the Mississippi River,
Emerald Mound on the Natchez Trace
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We headed North to Memphis by way of the Natchez Trace, a 444 mile parkway that runs along side the original "trace" or foot trail. This trail was used first by the American Indians and then by early settlers and traders. The trace runs through 3 states - Mississippi, Alabama and Tennessee and ends in Nashville. Along the way are historic towns, markers, and old settlements. We only drove the first 120 miles of the trace - up to Jackson, MS. But..... it is now on our list of routes to return to and drive the entirety.
We headed North to Memphis by way of the Natchez Trace, a 444 mile parkway that runs along side the original "trace" or foot trail. This trail was used first by the American Indians and then by early settlers and traders. The trace runs through 3 states - Mississippi, Alabama and Tennessee and ends in Nashville. Along the way are historic towns, markers, and old settlements. We only drove the first 120 miles of the trace - up to Jackson, MS. But..... it is now on our list of routes to return to and drive the entirety.
Natchez, MS
Mount Locust - farm home on the Natchez Trace
First Presbyterian Church
Inside Mount Locust
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sunset over the Mississippi River
Natchez, MS
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And so..... Memphis is a very big city with over 1/2 a million people spread out over a wide area. All the quaintness and beautiful architecture that we had seen would NOT be found here. A lot of Memphis is touristy, kitschy, and really feels divided.
Marlowe's BBQ
Memphis, TN
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Kitsch award goes to Marlowe's BBQ! A pink building on Elvis Presley Blvd not too far from Graceland. We stopped on our way to the campground to pick up dinner - and althou not the best BBQ it did treat us to 50's style leatherette booths, a really tacky gift shop, Elvis memorabilia everywhere and tvs hung from the ceiling playing old Elvis movies! Oh - and all delivery orders are sent in a pink Caddy.
Surrounded by green shag carpet, the living room, the media room
Graceland, Memphis, TN
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Game on - we had to start at Graceland!
The next morning the skies threatened rain and thunderstorms all day but we headed out early to start our day. Happy to report that Lisa Marie is well provided for…… WOW! A variety of tours - basic to VIP including separate tours for the house, the airplanes and the garage full of cars, 3 restaurants, 10 gift shops, and more being built. The house itself was very interesting to see - a real time warp. It was not overly large and although a bit wild in it’s furnishings, it was set up for family life.
The self guided tour employs individual iPads and headphones walking you through each room of the house, out into the backyard, his staff’s office, the horses, and the pool area/meditation garden. Unfortunately, the area housing all the gold records and awards was closed (they are currently making it bigger) but we were able to see/hear all about it on the iPad.
As a cultural reference, I’m glad we went. Was it worth the $76. for two basic senior tickets? Maybe - cause really just seeing Tim surrounded by green shag carpet on the way up to the Jungle Room was kind of priceless.
Sun Studios, Gibson Guitar Factory
Sun Studios Control Room and Studio
Memphis, TN
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We headed into downtown Memphis over the course of two days visiting the well known music studios and museums. On a whim we decided to take the Gibson Guitar factory tour and I am so happy that we did! Start to finish a Gibson guitar takes 4.5 weeks to make. Everything is done by hand except for a few machine cuts. To see each craftsperson contributing on a specific stage in the process was so cool - all handmade, hand painted, hand finished - amazing. Real artists.
Sun Records was our next stop. A really good tour. Incredible to fathom how so much rock and roll history came out of such a tiny place! BB King, Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and so many more. Surprisingly, nothing has changed in that studio since its start - if only those walls could have talked.
Stax Records was next on our hit list. Great museum and we spent close to 3 hours in there cause there wass so much to read about and see. The original Stax recording studio and building no longer exist but they rebuilt it and added a big museum space. Once again - overwhelmed by the number of musicians that came through here making their mark by writing, playing backup and creating the Stax sound. Otis Redding, Booker T and the MGs, Carla Thomas, Wilson Pickett and Issac Hayes. Awesome.
National Civil Rights Museum
Memphis, TN
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On our final day we went to the National Civil Rights Museum. I cannot say enough about this museum. It was built at the site of the Lorraine Motel and they kept the front balcony and parking lot exactly as it was on that fateful day and incorporated it right into the new building. To experience the full museum took us over 4 hours. SO much information and history - much of it we knew and some we did not - but all wonderfully displayed in chronological order.
As you near the end of the main part of the museum you find yourself in the hallway of the Lorraine Motel. Glass on 3 sides affords you a view into both Martin Luther King's room on one side and that of his associates on the other and in front of you is the balcony. You can not help but weep.
It was a powerful and affirming celebration of need and dedication.
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Flying Fish
Lunch - Memphis, TN
Lunch - Memphis, TN
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And we did have a couple of memorable meals - none of which included BBQ.
A late lunch at The Flying Fish, ordering at the counter and sitting at checkered cloth tables, we totally enjoyed the gumbo, catfish tacos, and ceviche.
Dinner one night was at Hogs and Hominy. (A spot recommended to us by Dave Charboneau, the owner of the rum distillery in Natchez.) Billed as Italian cooking / Southern roots it did not disappoint. We shared poutine, grits Al Forno - grits with an amatriciana sauce, and brisket gnocchi! Of course we had to try the peanut butter pie and a flight of gelato to finish.
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